Vinous (96+)

Bollinger’s 2009 Vieilles Vignes Françaises is tightly wound and reserved, which is quite surprising given the warm, dry weather of the vintage. That won’t be a problem in time, of course, but readers should plan on being patient. With a few hours of air, apricot, plum, spice, dried cherry and candied orange peel start to appear, but the 2009 remains rather taut. In some years, VVF can be quite opulent, 2002 and 2010 come to mind. The 2009, on the other hand is much more vibrant. I wouldn’t plan on opening a bottle anytime soon. VVF remains one of the most compelling wines – still or sparkling – in the world. It emerges from ungrafted Pinot Noir vines in Aÿ’s Chaudes Terres and Clos St. Jacques lieu-dits and is vinified and aged in barrel. Dosage is 4 grams per liter.

Vinous (96+)

Bollinger’s 2009 Vieilles Vignes Françaises is tightly wound and reserved, which is quite surprising given the warm, dry weather of the vintage. That won’t be a problem in time, of course, but readers should plan on being patient. With a few hours of air, apricot, plum, spice, dried cherry and candied orange peel start to appear, but the 2009 remains rather taut. In some years, VVF can be quite opulent, 2002 and 2010 come to mind. The 2009, on the other hand is much more vibrant. I wouldn’t plan on opening a bottle anytime soon. VVF remains one of the most compelling wines – still or sparkling – in the world. It emerges from ungrafted Pinot Noir vines in Aÿ’s Chaudes Terres and Clos St. Jacques lieu-dits and is vinified and aged in barrel. Dosage is 4 grams per liter.

Vinous (97)

The 2010 Vieilles Vignes Françaises dazzles from the very first impression with striking aromatic presence and utterly captivating balance. Mirabelle, sweet red cherry, jasmine and passion fruit are some of the many notes that give the 2010 its decidedly racy, exotic personality. The 2010 exudes rare energy for this vintage, which was hardly easy in the field, not to mention real pedigree. It is absolutely unforgettable. I only hope to have a chance to taste it again someday.

Vinous (97)

The 2010 Vieilles Vignes Françaises dazzles from the very first impression with striking aromatic presence and utterly captivating balance. Mirabelle, sweet red cherry, jasmine and passion fruit are some of the many notes that give the 2010 its decidedly racy, exotic personality. The 2010 exudes rare energy for this vintage, which was hardly easy in the field, not to mention real pedigree. It is absolutely unforgettable. I only hope to have a chance to taste it again someday.

Vinous (95)

The 2013 Vieilles Vignes Francaises is a powerhouse. Deep in color, the 2013 is rich and ample in feel. Apricot, spice, orange jam, cedar, dried herbs, ginger, honey and leather all meld together in a VVF that is decidedly opulent and vinous, despite the cool season and harvest that took place on September 27, late by present-day standards. Sadly, production has decreased steadily since 2008. Accumulated drought has been a challenge. Those conditions are, of course, amplified by the walls of the clos in these two parcels and the naturally warm climate of Aÿ. I find the 2013 decidedly exotic and a bit on the heavy side. Those lucky enough to own it will experience one of the most distinctive wines in all of Champagne. Production was less than 1,000 bottles.

The Brice Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru NV is a magnificent exemplification of fine Champagne from the esteemed house of Brice which roots date back to the 17th century. This cuvée is a Pinot Noir-dominated blend from the most prime vineyards, portraying the unique terroir of Bouzy – a highly prestigious Grand Cru village in Champagne.

Nose exhibits intense fruity notes swirled with brioche, while the palate boasts flavours of red fruits, citrus and a hint of extravagance with oak undertones that hints at its aging on lees. A lingering, bright finish enhances its complexity. With its traditional method of production, it exudes sophistication and elegance.

The Brice Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru NV is a sublime blend reflecting the meticulous expertise of its producer. An ideal choice for collectors and connoisseurs alike, it offers an unparalleled tasting experience for those who value the opulence of well-crafted Champagne.

Wine Advocate (94+)

Disgorged in May 2022, the Paillard NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is superbly fresh, offering up aromas of orchard fruit, lemon, spring flowers and menthol touches. Medium to full-bodied, expressive and precise with a delicate mousse, it’s seamless, vinous, chalky and harmonious with a clean and precise finish.

Wine Advocate (96)

The newly released 2003 NPU Nec Plus Ultra is only the fifth edition since 1990. The ambitious prestige cuvée from Bruno Paillard is only produced in great vintages (so far 1990, 1995, 1996, 1999 and 2003), and only from grand cru villages grapes; the ratio is always 50/50 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The first fermentation of the must (only the tête de cuve is used, but that's how it is in all the other BP cuvées) takes place in small oak barrels, where the wine spends ten months. No less than ten years have to pass by until the wine is disgorged as Extra Brut (there is three grams of dosage) and kept in the cellar for another year. This 2003 was disgorged in March 2015. Total production is 4,200 bottles. The wine has an intense yellow-golden color. It is very intense, rich and complex on the beautifully matured nose, where a bouquet of yellow and dried fruit aromas, along with Turkish honey, pistachio, almonds and torrone is displayed. Pure, fresh and mineral on the palate, this 2003 has lots of energy and finesse, is full of tension and develops a very persistent length. A fascinating, atypical 2003 vintage Champagne from that extremely dry and hot year.

Vinous (95)

The 2008 Extra Brut N.P.U. Nec Plus Ultra is a brilliant, taut Champagne. The combination of vintage and the extra brut style favored a Paillard that yields a young Champagne that is quite austere. It will be interesting to see if the 2008 fills out with time in bottle. Today it is piercing in its intensity. Disgorged: April, 2019.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (92)

A model of understatement and finesse, the NV Brut Première Cuvée is classic Bruno Paillard. Almonds, jasmine, lemon peel and lime float on the palate in a Champagne that impresses for its weightless, totally gracious personality. Bright chalky, saline-infused notes support the crystalline finish. The Brut Première Cuvée is 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay and 22% Pinot Meunier. I have seen the Paillard wines show best with a little more time on the cork, and am inclined to do the same thing here.

The Carbon Vintage Rosé 2005 is an exquisite vintage, renowned for its elegance and depth. Crafted by the meticulous house of Champagne Carbon in France, the wine is the epitome of luxury. The grapes are carefully handpicked from their finest pinot noir and chardonnay vineyards, with an extra dash of meunier to enhance its delicate flavour. The wine is aged for over a decade in exquisite French oak barrels under the perfect climatic conditions, giving it a sophisticated, crisp taste profile.

The Carbon Vintage Rosé 2005 resonates with a lovely pink hue, dovetailed with an array of intense flavours including wild strawberry, raspberry cream, toasted almonds and a hint of mineral earthiness. Its full-bodied structure, silky texture and persistent finish is an ode to its extraordinary maturation journey. Not to mention, each bottle is embellished in carbon fibre, reflecting the house's passion for tradition and innovation. Truly, the Carbon Vintage Rosé 2005 is the embodiment of sheer indulgence.

Vinous (92)

The NV (2018) Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine is bright, fresh and wonderfully nuanced. Orchard fruit, citrus and floral notes give the Val Vilaine so much energy. Cédric Bouchard coaxes so much nuance from these 40 year-old vines. The Val Vilaine is always the youngest wine in the range - the current release is the 2018, which spent just 15 months on its lees - but it will give readers who aren't familiar with these wines a very good idea of the house style. Zero dosage. Disgorged: April 2020.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (93)

The 2021 Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine is pretty powerful. The Val Vilaine is a fairly open, sensual wine in most years, but the 2021 is quite intense. Low yields from these 45-year-old vines resulted in an especially serious, vibrant Val Vilaine that should age very well. Pear, white flowers, spice and apple tart linger. This is an especially fine edition and a serious wine. Bottled with no dosage. Disgorged: 2023.

Vinous (98)

The 2013 Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée is marked by elevated ripeness and vibrancy, the hallmarks of this very singular Champagne vintage. Rich and tropical, the 2013 could use a bit of time to soften, and yet it is so inviting today. “We had a very long harvest in 2013, Cédric Bouchard explains. "Start and stop. We began on September 22 and finished on October 4, just before a big rainstorm. We also had a lot of rain in early August, but no mildew. When that happens, the last phase of ripening can be very fast. Usually, we gain 1% in potential alcohol per week during the last 3-4 weeks of the season but in 2013, it was more like 1.5% each week, kind of like 2006.”

Vinous (97)

The 2016 Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée is a Champagne of soaring intensity. Old Pinot Blanc vines on limestone yield a Champagne infused with striking mineral-laced energy. Green apple, pear, white flowers, crushed rocks and white pepper all race out of the glass. La Bolorée needs a few years in bottle to be at its best, although exercising that sort of patience in front of one of the world's most iconic wines is nearly impossible. Let me just say, when I want to serve my most cherished bottles for a special occasion, La Bolorée is often at the top of the list. Zero dosage. Disgorged: April, 2020.

Wine Advocate (97)

The 2018 Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée has also turned out beautifully, offering up aromas of clear honey, peach, white flowers, crushed mint, orange zest and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and racy palate that's simultaneously rich and intensely mineral, exhibiting a beautifully fine-boned, elegantly vinous profile and a long, sapid finish.

Vinous (95)

The clear highlight among these new releases, the 2008 Blanc de Noirs Côte de Béchalin is deep, powerful and beautifully layered in the glass. Resonant and generous yet with remarkable translucence, the 2008 is impeccable in its balance. There is plenty of nuance in the orchard fruit flavors, but above all else, the 2008 impresses with its total sense of harmony and proportion. The exuberant, racy finish only adds to the wine's inviting personality. Disgorged: April 2015.

Vinous (93)

The 2012 Blanc de Noirs Côte de Bechalin La Parcelle is bright, precise and beautifully lifted. Orchard fruit, mint, white pepper and floral notes lend brightness. This is a decidedly taut, vibrant Blanc de Noirs, especially considering the vintage. Gracious, medium in body and supremely inviting, the Côte de Bechalin is another stellar wine in this set of new releases. No dosage. Disgorged: April, 2019.

Vinous (88)

The 2011 Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules is quite delicate and understated in this vintage. Crushed flowers, herbs, dried cherries, kirsch, mint and anise are all nicely delineated in the glass. The aromatics are lifted and decidedly high-toned, while the wine lacks its customary balance, which brings out some angularity. The 2011 offers reasonably good balance within the context of the vintage, but not more. Tasted two times with some variation. Disgorged: April 2015.

Vinous (94)

The 2015 Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules is fascinating to taste next to the other Pinot Champagnes, all of which are brighter. Here, the weight and gravitas are very much front and center. Red cherry, kirsch, plum, mint and spice all blossom in the glass. The Ursules needs air to shine. A bit of time in the glass really brings out the creaminess and volume of the Pinot fruit. This is such an inviting and expressive Champagne. No dosage. Disgorged: April, 2019.

Vinous (95)

The 2016 Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules is a dense, powerful wine. Next to the Presle, it is deeper, richer and also more packed. Most of Bouchard's Champagnes need a few years in bottle to blossom. That is certainly the case here. The 2016 is impressive, but it needs time. As always, this tiny parcel measuring just 0.9 hectares yields a layered Blancs de Noirs with notable resonance and character. Zero dosage. Disgorged: April, 2020.

Wine Advocate (97)

The 2017 Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules is superb, mingling aromas of pear, mandarin and stone fruit with hints of fresh bread, pastry cream and iodine in an inviting mélange. Full-bodied, layered and fleshy, it's a concentrated, chiseled Ursules that's built for the cellar, with racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. While the reputation of the 2017 vintage in Champagne isn't great, you wouldn't know that from tasting this brilliant cuvée. As readers will remember, Les Ursules was the vineyard with which Cédric Bouchard began Roses de Jeanne, and he notes that of all the wines in his range, it's always the highest in acidity, the slowest to ferment and the slowest to conclude its malolactic fermentation.

Wine Advocate (97)

The 2017 Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules is superb, mingling aromas of pear, mandarin and stone fruit with hints of fresh bread, pastry cream and iodine in an inviting mélange. Full-bodied, layered and fleshy, it's a concentrated, chiseled Ursules that's built for the cellar, with racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. While the reputation of the 2017 vintage in Champagne isn't great, you wouldn't know that from tasting this brilliant cuvée. As readers will remember, Les Ursules was the vineyard with which Cédric Bouchard began Roses de Jeanne, and he notes that of all the wines in his range, it's always the highest in acidity, the slowest to ferment and the slowest to conclude its malolactic fermentation.

Wine Advocate (92)

Based on the 2012 vintage and disgorged in 2019, Heidsieck's NV Blanc de Blancs continues to show nicely, exhibiting aromas of lemon oil, dried white flowers, green apple and walnuts. It's medium to full-bodied, taut and chiseled. If anything it exhibits a more reserved, austere profile than it did last year. Based on this showing, it's evolving more slowly than I anticipated, and I'd be inclined to counsel readers to wait another year or two before popping corks.