Maison M.Chapoutier
About Maison M.Chapoutier
Established in 1808, M. Chapoutier is one of the oldest producers in the Rhône Valley. But its current worldwide fame - and the quality of its wines today - can be credited to the arrival of Michel Chapoutier in 1990. His willingness to change established practices - plus his determination to reflect the full potential of individual terroirs - has cemented his reputation as one of the greatest winemakers in the world.
The seventh-generation bearing the Chapoutier name to craft wines within the Rhône, it is reasonable to say that Michel Chapoutier is one of the most important figures not only within his native region, but the whole of France given his impact on the world’s fine wine scene.
Travelling extensively throughout both the Old and New wine producing worlds in his youth, Michel returned to the Northern Rhône with both vigorous passion for his craft as well as extensive knowledge gathered from hundreds of traditional and revolutionary vignerons from around the globe. The most important, lasting lesson learnt was the importance of terroir and the expression of nature’s nuances – a principle clearly evident throughout the modern Chapoutier offerings.
Setting about purchasing shares in his family company until he possessed a managing control, the first act of this masterful figure at the helm of Chapoutier was a revolutionary conversion of the entire estate to biodynamic principles in order to respect and encourage the terroir. An unprecedented move considered to be extraordinarily risky at the time, today many of its peers are merely playing catch-up to this imperious producer at the very height of its powers.
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Wine Advocate (99)
Surprisingly, I preferred the 2011 Ermitage le Meal Blanc over the 2012 on this occasion and it showed a more flamboyant, sexy style in its caramelized pineapple, tropical, honeyed and floral personality. Big, rich and decadent, with fabulous fruit intensity and length, this rock star flirts with perfection and will keep for another 3-4 decades.Inc. TAX€1,146.23 -
Wine Advocate (100)
Easily the finest vintage of this cuvee to date, the 2013 Ermitage le Meal Blanc doesn’t give an inch to the more heralded Cuvee de L’Orée or l’Ermite. Pure perfection in a glass, with awesome caramelized citrus, pineapple, crushed rock, toasted bread and buttered peach, it’s full-bodied, massive and concentrated on the palate, with incredible purity, richness and length. As with the other top whites here, it needs a year or two in the cellar and will have 2-3 decades of longevity.Inc. TAX€1,437.59 -
Decanter (99)
Aromatically a different register to the 2014 de l'Orée tasted directly beforehand. This is less richly fruited, with a more herbal, almost vegetal note, like tomato stalk. A little closed on the nose. Full-bodied, and grand. Good acidity that feels firm and gently steely. Great amplitude, a sensation that stays with you into the length. A forceful white Hermitage, that still has great freshness, energy and (relatively speaking for a white Hermitage) precise acidity. So long. A surging tsunami of a wine.Inc. TAX€1,196.39 -
Wine Advocate (100)
Another perfect wine is the 2015 Ermitage le Meal Blanc. The most decadent, unctuous and layered in the lineup, with to-die-for notes of white currants, toasted nuts, celery seed and licorice, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a huge mid-palate and a refreshing, pure, yet blockbuster finish that just won’t quit. If I had to pick a desert island white, this might be it.Inc. TAX€484.96 -
Vinous (95)
Vivid gold. Powerful, mineral-tinged Meyer lemon, nectarine and pear nectar scents show excellent clarity and complicating honey, fennel and smoky lees accents. Vibrant and expansive in the mouth, offering deeply concentrated orchard and pit fruit flavors along with suggestions of buttered toast and honeydew melon that build on the back half. Shows impressive energy and finishes silky and extremely long, featuring lingering floral and honey nuances.Inc. TAX€951.59 -
Wine Advocate (97-99)
Is le Méal the most complex and complete lieu-dit on Hermitage, when considering both red and white wines? The 2018 Ermitage le Méal Blanc certainly makes a case for the white, offering honeyed, complex notes of mixed citrus, pineapple, pear and melon, structural notes of crushed stone, ample weight and richness on the palate and a long, vibrant finish. Just terrific.Inc. TAX€1,058.88 -
Jeb Dunnuck (100)
The richest and most fruit loaded of the trio is the 2019 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which comes from a warmer terroir. This killer Hermitage Blanc has a vivid gold hue as well as a crazy good nose of quince, honeyed currants, acacia flowers, spice, and orange marmalade. It doesn't have the minerality of the L'Ermite (and to a lesser extent, the De l’Orée) yet has a more opulent, fat, unctuous style that's still flawlessly balanced and remarkably pure. This is another magical Hermitage from Chapoutier that does everything right. I followed this bottle for multiple days and it only improved with air. It's certainly the more early drinking of these three single vineyard releases, yet it still deserves 2-4 years of bottle age and should keep for 30 years or more.Inc. TAX€1,066.79 -
Jeb Dunnuck (100)
I was blown away by the 2020 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which is certainly the finest vintage of this cuvée I’ve tasted. From the pure south-facing Méal lieu-dit (which is the warmest terroir on Hermitage), it was vinified and aged 70% demi-muids (10% new) and 30% in stainless steel. Straight-up heavenly notes of white currants, powdered rock, celery seed, honeysuckle, and toasted almonds all define the bouquet, and it’s full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, with that rare mix of richness and freshness. Hermitage Blanc doesn’t get any better. I love this today, yet it will certainly benefit from a year or two of bottle age, drink well for 3-5 years, at which point, it’s probably best to wait until a solid 15 years after the vintage.Inc. TAX€825.83 -
Inc. TAX€889.92 -
Decanter (99)
Rhône 2022 white wine of the vintage. Decidedly rich in style, the oak is quite marked, with roasted pineapple notes, lemon verbena and lemon thyme. Very full-bodied, this is massive, assertive and powerful, but with great freshness and energy. Flinty, smoky elements and a long, salty, mineral finish. One for the ages. Pure Marsanne, vines are over 50 years old, planted on pebbles, clay and some loess, facing south. Whole-bunch pressed, half fermented in demi-muids, half in vats.Inc. TAX€1,303.68 -
(12x75cl) 1991Vinous (92+)
Saturated ruby color. Superripe, warm aromas of cassis, plum, chocolate and roasted meat, and livelier and more primary than those of the regular cuvee. Huge, lush, thick and layered in the mouth; impressively deep flavors of cassis and chocolate are a bit heavy for the vintage. I would have picked this blind as a '90. A bit monolithic and undifferentiated today, but this very powerful wine is still an infant. Finishes with major mouthdusting (wood?) tannins. Undeniably impressive, but could use a bit more refinement.Inc. TAX€5,757.73 -
Wine Advocate (93)
The 1993 Le Pavilion is the Hermitage of the Vintage. More austere than when I tasted it prior to bottling, it is one of the few 1993s with a sweet inner core of fruit, as well as a dense ruby/purple color, outstanding concentration and extract, and huge tannin in the finish. It is a harder style of Le Pavilion than the 1992, but it should turn out to be a 40- to 50-year wine. Last tasted 6/96.Inc. TAX€1,942.24 -
Wine Advocate (96)
The 1994 Le Pavilion is a blockbuster, phenomenally concentrated wine. Le Pavilion is generally among the top three or four wines of France in every vintage! The 1994's opaque purple color, and wonderfully sweet, pure nose of cassis and other black fruits intertwined with minerals, are followed by a wine of profound richness, great complexity, and full body. It is almost the essence of blackberries and cassis. There is huge tannin in this monster Hermitage, that somehow manages to keep its balance and elegance. Made from a parcel of vines (which I have walked through), some of which predate the phylloxera epidemic, the 1994 Ermitage Le Pavilion should be purchased only by those who are willing to invest 10-12 years of cellaring. It will not reach full maturity before the end of the first decade of the next century, after which it will last for 30 + years. Last tasted 6/96.Inc. TAX€654.16 -
(6x75cl) 1996Vinous (92-94)
Saturated ruby. Deep aromas of cassis, blueberry, game, woodsmoke and iron. Thick, powerful and gamey in the mouth; has the texture and thickness not yet shown by Chapoutier's '96 Hermitage Méal. Primal dark berry and violet notes. Explosive fruit on the very long aftertaste, which features huge, chewy tannins. Neither particularly sauvage nor especially austere. Should be a beauty with seven or eight years of bottle aging. A great performance for the vintage.Inc. TAX€1,201.26 -
(6x150cl) 1998Vinous (94)
Fresh ruby-red. Fruit-driven, very primary aromas of cassis, wild cherry, leather and pepper. Lush, rich and deep; showing more sweetness and texture today than the more backward Meal. This large-scaled wine has superb density and clarity of flavor. Finishes with big, ripe tannins and outstanding length. Perhaps more complete than the Meal.Inc. TAX€4,711.32 -
(6x75cl) 1999
Wine Advocate (96)
The prodigious 1999 Ermitage Le Pavillon boasts creme de cassis aromatics intermixed with unmistakable aromas of ink. It is full-bodied and fabulously concentrated as well as powerful, with a finish that lasts for fifty seconds. This saturated black/purple-colored 1999 exhibits remarkable symmetry, purity, and overall massive size all juxtaposed with a sense of elegance and restraint. It is a monumental achievement, but ultimately is less successful than the great 1998 or 2000.Inc. TAX€2,229.66 -
Wine Advocate (98)
Year in and year out, one of the three greatest Hermitages made is Chapoutier’s Le Pavillon. The black/blue-colored 2000 Ermitage Le Pavillon is brilliant out of bottle. Notes of graphite, ink, licorice, creme de cassis, and minerals jump from the glass of this syrup of Hermitage. Full-bodied, unctuously-textured, gorgeously rich, spectacularly concentrated and long, it is a tour de force in winemaking. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2040. (I disagree, but Michel Chapoutier feels his finest three Le Pavillons to date have been 1991 followed by 1995 and 2000. I retain a preference for the glorious trilogy of 1989, 1990, and 1991.)Inc. TAX€3,849.07 -
Wine Advocate (100)
Even better, and topping out on my scale, the 2003 Ermitage le Pavillon comes all from the granite soils of the Les Bessards lieu-dit and was aged 100% in new barrels. Its inky ruby/black color is followed by off the hook aromas and flavors of plum, creme de cassis, licorice, crushed rocks and violet/incense-like qualities. This gives way to a full-bodied, dense, seamless and textured 2003 that has building tannin, awesome concentration and a blockbuster finish. Drink it anytime over the coming two decades, although, as with the Le Meal, it’s gorgeous now.Inc. TAX€1,856.63 -
(3x150cl) 2005Wine Advocate (100)
My favorite of the 2005s from Chapoutier, the 2005 Ermitage Le Pavillon is a heavenly wine that comes from one of the greatest sites for Syrah in the world, the steep, granite-dominated hillside of les Bessards. Getting a bevy of expletives in my notes, this insanely good Hermitage offers classic notes of smoked meats, charcoal, liquid rock, burning embers, chocolate and cassis, as well as a thick, unctuous and massively concentrated style on the palate. Changing in the glass, with exotic aromatics, incredible purity and building, polished tannin, Syrah doesn’t get any better. Given the youthful profile here, I’m sure this will see its 50th birthday in fine form, but it still delivers plenty of pleasure today given its texture, purity and balance.Inc. TAX€2,474.63 -
Wine Advocate (100)
My favorite of the 2005s from Chapoutier, the 2005 Ermitage Le Pavillon is a heavenly wine that comes from one of the greatest sites for Syrah in the world, the steep, granite-dominated hillside of les Bessards. Getting a bevy of expletives in my notes, this insanely good Hermitage offers classic notes of smoked meats, charcoal, liquid rock, burning embers, chocolate and cassis, as well as a thick, unctuous and massively concentrated style on the palate. Changing in the glass, with exotic aromatics, incredible purity and building, polished tannin, Syrah doesn’t get any better. Given the youthful profile here, I’m sure this will see its 50th birthday in fine form, but it still delivers plenty of pleasure today given its texture, purity and balance.Inc. TAX€2,120.63 -
Wine Advocate (93)
The most concentrated 2008 Ermitage is Le Pavillon (915 cases). Backward as well as elegant, it offers up scents of blueberries, blackberries, camphor, black truffles and earth. The wine is medium to full-bodied, moderately tannic and, atypically, capable of lasting 20-25+ years.Inc. TAX€875.28 -
(1x600cl) 2009Wine Advocate (100)
A perfect wine, the 2009 Ermitage Le Pavillon (1,093 cases) boasts a black/purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of acacia flowers, blackberries, blueberries, roasted meats, creme de cassis, truffles, graphite, powdered rock and new saddle leather. Extremely dense, noble and pure, this monumental Ermitage is built for 50-100 years of cellaring.Inc. TAX€3,750.78 -
Wine Advocate (100)
A perfect wine, the 2009 Ermitage Le Pavillon (1,093 cases) boasts a black/purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of acacia flowers, blackberries, blueberries, roasted meats, creme de cassis, truffles, graphite, powdered rock and new saddle leather. Extremely dense, noble and pure, this monumental Ermitage is built for 50-100 years of cellaring.Inc. TAX€2,265.59 -
(6x75cl) 2010Wine Advocate (100)
Tasting like the concentrated blood from an aged and grilled strip steak, the 2010 Ermitage Le Pavillon boasts a black/purple color along with creme de cassis, camphor, pen ink, white flower and lead pencil shaving characteristics in its massive, full-bodied personality. It almost defies description because of its ethereal concentration and off-the-charts extract levels. This is not for the faint of heart, or those who lack patience, as it will require 10-15 years of bottle age, and, as previously stated, will keep for 50 or more. There are just over 1,000 cases of the 2010 Le Pavillon, another perfect wine in the constellation of profound wines produced by Michel Chapoutier.Inc. TAX€1,939.84 -
Wine Advocate (100)
Even better and a prodigious effort that hits all my sweet spots, the 2011 Ermitage Le Pavillon comes from one of the top terroirs on Hermitage hill, the granite soils of the Les Bessards lieu-dit. Spectacularly perfumed, with raspberry, blackberry, licorice, toasted spices and assorted floral nuances, this full-bodied effort has massive depth and richness, no hard edges and masses of finely polished tannin that emerge on and frame the finish. It will be approachable at an earlier age than either the 2009 or 2010, yet should nevertheless have 2-3 decades of ultimate longevity.Inc. TAX€1,730.63 -
Wine Advocate (100)
Sharing some similarities to the le Meal (yet its from a very different terroir), with its full-bodied, decadent, heavenly profile that somehow stays pure, poised and elegant, the 2012 Ermitage le Pavillon (767 cases) offers an extraordinary perfume of cassis, raspberries, crushed flowers, powdered rock and smoked earth. Coming all from the granite soils of the les Bessards lieu-dit, which produces some of the most muscular, concentrated wines on the planet, this serious 2012 is more approachable than either the 2009 or 2010, yet certainly is at the same level of quality. Give it 6-7 years in the cellar and enjoy it through 2042.Inc. TAX€1,370.63 -
Wine Advocate (98+)
The star of the show in 2013 is the 2013 Ermitage le Pavillon. Coming from the west and eastern edges of the Bessards lieu-dit and aged in 30% new French oak, its sensational black/blue color is followed by the awesome bouquet of cassis, smoked earth, graphite and caramelized meats that could come from no other terroir in the world. Full-bodied, massive, dense, sexy and with a liquid rock-like character that comes out with time in the glass, it has sweet tannin and a blockbuster finish that keeps you coming back to the glass. It needs 5-6 years of cellaring and will have 30-40 years of more of ultimate longevity.Inc. TAX€941.03 -
Decanter (98)
So sultry and spicy, this wine gives more and more as it sits in the glass. Smoky aromas like dying cinders mix with seared meat and sun-dried herbs in a deep, savoury expression. There's good depth of fruit, but it's dark and mixed with flecks of graphite and pencil shavings. The tannins are ever-present, but they're fine, sooty and delicate.Inc. TAX€918.23 -
Jeb Dunnuck (100)
Another perfect wine, the 2015 Ermitage Le Pavillon comes from the Bessards lieu-dit on Hermitage, which is pure granite soils. I've said it before, but will say it again, this is unquestionably the finest, most singular vineyard for Syrah in the world. Cassis, graphite, smoked herbs, liquid rocks and violet aromas give way to a huge, concentrated, opulent and off-the-charts beauty that just hints at its ultimate potential. I wouldn’t think about opening bottles for at least a decade, after which it will keep for 4-5 decades.Inc. TAX€2,006.63 -
(1x150cl) 2016Wine Advocate (100)
Aged entirely in barriques (25% new), the 2016 Ermitage le Pavillon shows only a hint of warm pencil shavings on the nose, beautifully setting up notes of fresh blackcurrants. Full-bodied, concentrated and plush across the mid-palate, it turns rich and velvety on the nearly endless finish, marked by savory notes of beef, licorice and espresso. If you wish to catch a glimpse of this wine's greatness, it would be no crime to open a bottle upon release, as I suspect it will close down for a number of years soon afterward.Inc. TAX€809.59
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Wine Advocate (99)
Surprisingly, I preferred the 2011 Ermitage le Meal Blanc over the 2012 on this occasion and it showed a more flamboyant, sexy style in its caramelized pineapple, tropical, honeyed and floral personality. Big, rich and decadent, with fabulous fruit intensity and length, this rock star flirts with perfection and will keep for another 3-4 decades.In Bond€933.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
Easily the finest vintage of this cuvee to date, the 2013 Ermitage le Meal Blanc doesn’t give an inch to the more heralded Cuvee de L’Orée or l’Ermite. Pure perfection in a glass, with awesome caramelized citrus, pineapple, crushed rock, toasted bread and buttered peach, it’s full-bodied, massive and concentrated on the palate, with incredible purity, richness and length. As with the other top whites here, it needs a year or two in the cellar and will have 2-3 decades of longevity.In Bond€1,175.00 -
Decanter (99)
Aromatically a different register to the 2014 de l'Orée tasted directly beforehand. This is less richly fruited, with a more herbal, almost vegetal note, like tomato stalk. A little closed on the nose. Full-bodied, and grand. Good acidity that feels firm and gently steely. Great amplitude, a sensation that stays with you into the length. A forceful white Hermitage, that still has great freshness, energy and (relatively speaking for a white Hermitage) precise acidity. So long. A surging tsunami of a wine.In Bond€974.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
Another perfect wine is the 2015 Ermitage le Meal Blanc. The most decadent, unctuous and layered in the lineup, with to-die-for notes of white currants, toasted nuts, celery seed and licorice, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a huge mid-palate and a refreshing, pure, yet blockbuster finish that just won’t quit. If I had to pick a desert island white, this might be it.In Bond€397.00 -
Vinous (95)
Vivid gold. Powerful, mineral-tinged Meyer lemon, nectarine and pear nectar scents show excellent clarity and complicating honey, fennel and smoky lees accents. Vibrant and expansive in the mouth, offering deeply concentrated orchard and pit fruit flavors along with suggestions of buttered toast and honeydew melon that build on the back half. Shows impressive energy and finishes silky and extremely long, featuring lingering floral and honey nuances.In Bond€770.00 -
Wine Advocate (97-99)
Is le Méal the most complex and complete lieu-dit on Hermitage, when considering both red and white wines? The 2018 Ermitage le Méal Blanc certainly makes a case for the white, offering honeyed, complex notes of mixed citrus, pineapple, pear and melon, structural notes of crushed stone, ample weight and richness on the palate and a long, vibrant finish. Just terrific.In Bond€861.00 -
Jeb Dunnuck (100)
The richest and most fruit loaded of the trio is the 2019 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which comes from a warmer terroir. This killer Hermitage Blanc has a vivid gold hue as well as a crazy good nose of quince, honeyed currants, acacia flowers, spice, and orange marmalade. It doesn't have the minerality of the L'Ermite (and to a lesser extent, the De l’Orée) yet has a more opulent, fat, unctuous style that's still flawlessly balanced and remarkably pure. This is another magical Hermitage from Chapoutier that does everything right. I followed this bottle for multiple days and it only improved with air. It's certainly the more early drinking of these three single vineyard releases, yet it still deserves 2-4 years of bottle age and should keep for 30 years or more.In Bond€866.00 -
Jeb Dunnuck (100)
I was blown away by the 2020 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which is certainly the finest vintage of this cuvée I’ve tasted. From the pure south-facing Méal lieu-dit (which is the warmest terroir on Hermitage), it was vinified and aged 70% demi-muids (10% new) and 30% in stainless steel. Straight-up heavenly notes of white currants, powdered rock, celery seed, honeysuckle, and toasted almonds all define the bouquet, and it’s full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, with that rare mix of richness and freshness. Hermitage Blanc doesn’t get any better. I love this today, yet it will certainly benefit from a year or two of bottle age, drink well for 3-5 years, at which point, it’s probably best to wait until a solid 15 years after the vintage.In Bond€666.00 -
In Bond€721.00
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Decanter (99)
Rhône 2022 white wine of the vintage. Decidedly rich in style, the oak is quite marked, with roasted pineapple notes, lemon verbena and lemon thyme. Very full-bodied, this is massive, assertive and powerful, but with great freshness and energy. Flinty, smoky elements and a long, salty, mineral finish. One for the ages. Pure Marsanne, vines are over 50 years old, planted on pebbles, clay and some loess, facing south. Whole-bunch pressed, half fermented in demi-muids, half in vats.In Bond€1,065.00 -
(12x75cl) 1991
Vinous (92+)
Saturated ruby color. Superripe, warm aromas of cassis, plum, chocolate and roasted meat, and livelier and more primary than those of the regular cuvee. Huge, lush, thick and layered in the mouth; impressively deep flavors of cassis and chocolate are a bit heavy for the vintage. I would have picked this blind as a '90. A bit monolithic and undifferentiated today, but this very powerful wine is still an infant. Finishes with major mouthdusting (wood?) tannins. Undeniably impressive, but could use a bit more refinement.In Bond€4,750.00 -
Wine Advocate (93)
The 1993 Le Pavilion is the Hermitage of the Vintage. More austere than when I tasted it prior to bottling, it is one of the few 1993s with a sweet inner core of fruit, as well as a dense ruby/purple color, outstanding concentration and extract, and huge tannin in the finish. It is a harder style of Le Pavilion than the 1992, but it should turn out to be a 40- to 50-year wine. Last tasted 6/96.In Bond€1,590.00 -
Wine Advocate (96)
The 1994 Le Pavilion is a blockbuster, phenomenally concentrated wine. Le Pavilion is generally among the top three or four wines of France in every vintage! The 1994's opaque purple color, and wonderfully sweet, pure nose of cassis and other black fruits intertwined with minerals, are followed by a wine of profound richness, great complexity, and full body. It is almost the essence of blackberries and cassis. There is huge tannin in this monster Hermitage, that somehow manages to keep its balance and elegance. Made from a parcel of vines (which I have walked through), some of which predate the phylloxera epidemic, the 1994 Ermitage Le Pavilion should be purchased only by those who are willing to invest 10-12 years of cellaring. It will not reach full maturity before the end of the first decade of the next century, after which it will last for 30 + years. Last tasted 6/96.In Bond€538.00 -
(6x75cl) 1996
Vinous (92-94)
Saturated ruby. Deep aromas of cassis, blueberry, game, woodsmoke and iron. Thick, powerful and gamey in the mouth; has the texture and thickness not yet shown by Chapoutier's '96 Hermitage Méal. Primal dark berry and violet notes. Explosive fruit on the very long aftertaste, which features huge, chewy tannins. Neither particularly sauvage nor especially austere. Should be a beauty with seven or eight years of bottle aging. A great performance for the vintage.In Bond€978.00 -
(6x150cl) 1998
Vinous (94)
Fresh ruby-red. Fruit-driven, very primary aromas of cassis, wild cherry, leather and pepper. Lush, rich and deep; showing more sweetness and texture today than the more backward Meal. This large-scaled wine has superb density and clarity of flavor. Finishes with big, ripe tannins and outstanding length. Perhaps more complete than the Meal.In Bond€3,880.00 -
(6x75cl) 1999
Wine Advocate (96)
The prodigious 1999 Ermitage Le Pavillon boasts creme de cassis aromatics intermixed with unmistakable aromas of ink. It is full-bodied and fabulously concentrated as well as powerful, with a finish that lasts for fifty seconds. This saturated black/purple-colored 1999 exhibits remarkable symmetry, purity, and overall massive size all juxtaposed with a sense of elegance and restraint. It is a monumental achievement, but ultimately is less successful than the great 1998 or 2000.In Bond€1,835.00 -
Wine Advocate (98)
Year in and year out, one of the three greatest Hermitages made is Chapoutier’s Le Pavillon. The black/blue-colored 2000 Ermitage Le Pavillon is brilliant out of bottle. Notes of graphite, ink, licorice, creme de cassis, and minerals jump from the glass of this syrup of Hermitage. Full-bodied, unctuously-textured, gorgeously rich, spectacularly concentrated and long, it is a tour de force in winemaking. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2040. (I disagree, but Michel Chapoutier feels his finest three Le Pavillons to date have been 1991 followed by 1995 and 2000. I retain a preference for the glorious trilogy of 1989, 1990, and 1991.)In Bond€3,160.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
Even better, and topping out on my scale, the 2003 Ermitage le Pavillon comes all from the granite soils of the Les Bessards lieu-dit and was aged 100% in new barrels. Its inky ruby/black color is followed by off the hook aromas and flavors of plum, creme de cassis, licorice, crushed rocks and violet/incense-like qualities. This gives way to a full-bodied, dense, seamless and textured 2003 that has building tannin, awesome concentration and a blockbuster finish. Drink it anytime over the coming two decades, although, as with the Le Meal, it’s gorgeous now.In Bond€1,525.00 -
(3x150cl) 2005
Wine Advocate (100)
My favorite of the 2005s from Chapoutier, the 2005 Ermitage Le Pavillon is a heavenly wine that comes from one of the greatest sites for Syrah in the world, the steep, granite-dominated hillside of les Bessards. Getting a bevy of expletives in my notes, this insanely good Hermitage offers classic notes of smoked meats, charcoal, liquid rock, burning embers, chocolate and cassis, as well as a thick, unctuous and massively concentrated style on the palate. Changing in the glass, with exotic aromatics, incredible purity and building, polished tannin, Syrah doesn’t get any better. Given the youthful profile here, I’m sure this will see its 50th birthday in fine form, but it still delivers plenty of pleasure today given its texture, purity and balance.In Bond€2,040.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
My favorite of the 2005s from Chapoutier, the 2005 Ermitage Le Pavillon is a heavenly wine that comes from one of the greatest sites for Syrah in the world, the steep, granite-dominated hillside of les Bessards. Getting a bevy of expletives in my notes, this insanely good Hermitage offers classic notes of smoked meats, charcoal, liquid rock, burning embers, chocolate and cassis, as well as a thick, unctuous and massively concentrated style on the palate. Changing in the glass, with exotic aromatics, incredible purity and building, polished tannin, Syrah doesn’t get any better. Given the youthful profile here, I’m sure this will see its 50th birthday in fine form, but it still delivers plenty of pleasure today given its texture, purity and balance.In Bond€1,745.00 -
Wine Advocate (93)
The most concentrated 2008 Ermitage is Le Pavillon (915 cases). Backward as well as elegant, it offers up scents of blueberries, blackberries, camphor, black truffles and earth. The wine is medium to full-bodied, moderately tannic and, atypically, capable of lasting 20-25+ years.In Bond€708.00 -
(1x600cl) 2009
Wine Advocate (100)
A perfect wine, the 2009 Ermitage Le Pavillon (1,093 cases) boasts a black/purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of acacia flowers, blackberries, blueberries, roasted meats, creme de cassis, truffles, graphite, powdered rock and new saddle leather. Extremely dense, noble and pure, this monumental Ermitage is built for 50-100 years of cellaring.In Bond€3,095.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
A perfect wine, the 2009 Ermitage Le Pavillon (1,093 cases) boasts a black/purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of acacia flowers, blackberries, blueberries, roasted meats, creme de cassis, truffles, graphite, powdered rock and new saddle leather. Extremely dense, noble and pure, this monumental Ermitage is built for 50-100 years of cellaring.In Bond€1,865.00 -
(6x75cl) 2010
Wine Advocate (100)
Tasting like the concentrated blood from an aged and grilled strip steak, the 2010 Ermitage Le Pavillon boasts a black/purple color along with creme de cassis, camphor, pen ink, white flower and lead pencil shaving characteristics in its massive, full-bodied personality. It almost defies description because of its ethereal concentration and off-the-charts extract levels. This is not for the faint of heart, or those who lack patience, as it will require 10-15 years of bottle age, and, as previously stated, will keep for 50 or more. There are just over 1,000 cases of the 2010 Le Pavillon, another perfect wine in the constellation of profound wines produced by Michel Chapoutier.In Bond€1,595.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
Even better and a prodigious effort that hits all my sweet spots, the 2011 Ermitage Le Pavillon comes from one of the top terroirs on Hermitage hill, the granite soils of the Les Bessards lieu-dit. Spectacularly perfumed, with raspberry, blackberry, licorice, toasted spices and assorted floral nuances, this full-bodied effort has massive depth and richness, no hard edges and masses of finely polished tannin that emerge on and frame the finish. It will be approachable at an earlier age than either the 2009 or 2010, yet should nevertheless have 2-3 decades of ultimate longevity.In Bond€1,420.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
Sharing some similarities to the le Meal (yet its from a very different terroir), with its full-bodied, decadent, heavenly profile that somehow stays pure, poised and elegant, the 2012 Ermitage le Pavillon (767 cases) offers an extraordinary perfume of cassis, raspberries, crushed flowers, powdered rock and smoked earth. Coming all from the granite soils of the les Bessards lieu-dit, which produces some of the most muscular, concentrated wines on the planet, this serious 2012 is more approachable than either the 2009 or 2010, yet certainly is at the same level of quality. Give it 6-7 years in the cellar and enjoy it through 2042.In Bond€1,120.00 -
Wine Advocate (98+)
The star of the show in 2013 is the 2013 Ermitage le Pavillon. Coming from the west and eastern edges of the Bessards lieu-dit and aged in 30% new French oak, its sensational black/blue color is followed by the awesome bouquet of cassis, smoked earth, graphite and caramelized meats that could come from no other terroir in the world. Full-bodied, massive, dense, sexy and with a liquid rock-like character that comes out with time in the glass, it has sweet tannin and a blockbuster finish that keeps you coming back to the glass. It needs 5-6 years of cellaring and will have 30-40 years of more of ultimate longevity.In Bond€762.00 -
Decanter (98)
So sultry and spicy, this wine gives more and more as it sits in the glass. Smoky aromas like dying cinders mix with seared meat and sun-dried herbs in a deep, savoury expression. There's good depth of fruit, but it's dark and mixed with flecks of graphite and pencil shavings. The tannins are ever-present, but they're fine, sooty and delicate.In Bond€743.00 -
Jeb Dunnuck (100)
Another perfect wine, the 2015 Ermitage Le Pavillon comes from the Bessards lieu-dit on Hermitage, which is pure granite soils. I've said it before, but will say it again, this is unquestionably the finest, most singular vineyard for Syrah in the world. Cassis, graphite, smoked herbs, liquid rocks and violet aromas give way to a huge, concentrated, opulent and off-the-charts beauty that just hints at its ultimate potential. I wouldn’t think about opening bottles for at least a decade, after which it will keep for 4-5 decades.In Bond€1,650.00 -
(1x150cl) 2016
Wine Advocate (100)
Aged entirely in barriques (25% new), the 2016 Ermitage le Pavillon shows only a hint of warm pencil shavings on the nose, beautifully setting up notes of fresh blackcurrants. Full-bodied, concentrated and plush across the mid-palate, it turns rich and velvety on the nearly endless finish, marked by savory notes of beef, licorice and espresso. If you wish to catch a glimpse of this wine's greatness, it would be no crime to open a bottle upon release, as I suspect it will close down for a number of years soon afterward.In Bond€667.00
