Haut-Brion
Château Haut-Brion is a Premier Grand Cru Classé (First Growth) estate located in the Pessac-Léognan appellation of Graves, south of Bordeaux. Château Haut-Brion is the oldest continuous winery in Bordeaux, with records of viticulture on the estate from 1423. Haut-Brion has been celebrated for centuries. Samuel Pepys tasted the wine at Royal Oak Tavern on April 10th 1663 and wrote that he "drank a sort of French wine called Ho Bryen that hath a good and most particular taste I never met with". One of the world’s earliest tasting notes!
In the 1855 classification, Haut-Brion was the only First Growth not in the Médoc. The estate is managed today by Prince Robert of Luxembourg. Since 1982 they have increased selection using less than half the number of grapes in the Grand Vin, which has had a notably effect on quality. In addition to the Grand Vin, Haut-Brion produces a red second wine called Le Clarence de Haut Brion. The vineyard also produces a dry white wine named Château Haut-Brion Blanc which is very highly prized.
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Wine Advocate (98)
1990: In terms of the brilliant complexity and nobility of the aromatics, scorched earth, black currants, plums, charcoal, cedar, and spices, the 1990 offers an aromatic explosion that is unparalleled. It is always fascinating to taste this wine next to the 1989, which is a monumental effort, but much more backward and denser, without the aromatic complexity of the 1990. The 1990 put on weight after bottling, and is currently rich, full-bodied, opulent, even flamboyant by Haut Brion’s standards. It is an incredible expression of a noble terroir in a top vintage. While it has been fully mature for a number of years, it does not reveal any bricking at the edge, and I suspect it will stay at this level for another 10-15 years ... but why wait? It is irresistible now. Release price: ($1200.00/case)Inc. TAX€9,676.21 -
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (97)
One of the stars of the vintage, the 2014 Haut-Brion is an exceptionally beautiful and vivid wine. Super-ripe dark cherry, plum, tobacco and menthol are some of the notes that run through the 2014. Just as it did from barrel, the 2014 boasts tons of opulence, intensity and richness. Dried flowers, tobacco, menthol, licorice and smoke wrap around the huge, baritone-inflected finish. Readers should not be in any rush with the 2014, as it is likely to require a number of years before it even starts to drink well. The blend is 50 % Merlot, 39 % Cabernet Sauvignon and 11 % Cabernet Franc.Inc. TAX€3,142.38 -
James Suckling (98)
This is extremely aromatic and perfumed with crushed-berry, flower, currant and orange-peel character. Full-bodied, very tight and focused with fabulous depth and density that brings you down through the wine. Deep and serious. Very classic wine that reminds me of top Haut-Brions of the mid-1980s. Try after 2025.Inc. TAX€3,232.38 -
James Suckling (100)
The black cassis comes out of the glass, together with iodine, sandalwood and subtle moss and wet-bark undertones, then turning to violets. The palate is mind-blowing, with a cashmere texture that unravels on the palate and continues on for minutes. It’s full of superbly complex, ethereal character and mouth-feel, One of the wines of the vintage. As glorious as it may be to taste now, this is one for your deep cellar. Try in 2029.Inc. TAX€3,878.87 -
Jeb Dunnuck (100)
I finished my trip through Bordeaux with the 2020 Château Haut-Brion, and it was certainly a fitting cap to the trip. Revealing a deep ruby/plum hue, the 2020 exhibits extraordinary aromatics of ripe black fruits, scorched earth, cold fireplace, and acacia flowers. An absolute blockbuster on the palate, this structured, full-bodied, massively concentrated Pessac builds incrementally, with ultra-fine tannins, a deep, layered mid-palate, and a great, great finish. Richer and more concentrated than both the 2018 and 2019 (there are some similarities to 2010), this is a legend in the making. The blend is 42.8% Merlot, 39.7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the balance Cabernet Franc, all of which will spend 15-18 months in 77% new French oak. Hide bottles for a decade, and it should evolve for 50-75 years.Inc. TAX€3,788.87 -
The Wine Independent (98-100)
A blend of 52.3% Merlot, 38.6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 9.1% Cabernet Franc, the 2023 Haut-Brion has a pH of 3.7 and a deep garnet-purple color. It is quite closed to begin, needing a lot of patient swirling to coax out notes of plum preserves, black cherry compote, and wild blueberries, leading to perfumed hints of peonies, crushed stones, rose bud tea, and licorice, with a touch of wood smoke. The medium to full- bodied palate delivers black and blue fruit layers that shimmy and swirl in the mouth with jaw-dropping energy, accented by mineral and exotic spice notes and supported with a firm backbone and plush, plush tannins, finishing with a breathtaking firework display. Very clever wine!Inc. TAX€2,706.55 -
Jeb Dunnuck (99)
The white of the vintage is the 2016 Haut Brion Blanc, a Sauvignon-dominated blend that includes just under 30% Sémillon. Amazingly deep and rich, yet vibrant at the same time, it offers an exotic, liquid rock-like minerality as well as notes of citrus zest, crushed limes, and white flowers. It’s unquestionably one of the most concentrated, powerful wines out there, yet it still just glides across the palate with flawless integration of its fruit and acidity. It needs short-term cellaring and will keep for 20-30 years if you’re so inclined.Inc. TAX€7,438.60 -
James Suckling (94-95)
A lovely, dense white with pretty phenolic tension and dried-apple and peach character. Medium to full body. Phenolics give this tension.Inc. TAX€1,176.78 -
James Suckling (95-96)
This has fascinating, smoky, bark, dried-meat and crushed-berry character. It’s full-bodied with crushed stone, tobacco and dried meat. Extremely long and flavorful.Inc. TAX€934.07 -
James Suckling (96-97)
Very plush and tannic with full body and lots of structure and intensity. Top second wine. Very solid and quite muscular with fine tannins and texture.Inc. TAX€1,318.54 -
James Suckling (94-95)
Lots of iodine and oyster-shell aromas, together with blackberry and black cherry, following through to a medium to full body. Polished yet slightly chewy tannins and a fresh finish. Grilled orange. 70.4% merlot, 18.2% cabernet sauvignon and 11.4% cabernet franc.Inc. TAX€1,100.39 -
The Wine Independent (91-93)
A blend of 55.5% Merlot, 40.9% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3.6% Cabernet Franc, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion 2023 is deep garnet-purple in color. It needs a lot of shaking to wake up scents of fresh black and red currants, raspberry leaves, and star anise, leading to touches of mossy tree bark and wet slate. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers a firm frame of grainy tannins and well knit freshness to support the spritely fruit, finishing with a savory lift.Inc. TAX€865.79
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Wine Advocate (98)
1990: In terms of the brilliant complexity and nobility of the aromatics, scorched earth, black currants, plums, charcoal, cedar, and spices, the 1990 offers an aromatic explosion that is unparalleled. It is always fascinating to taste this wine next to the 1989, which is a monumental effort, but much more backward and denser, without the aromatic complexity of the 1990. The 1990 put on weight after bottling, and is currently rich, full-bodied, opulent, even flamboyant by Haut Brion’s standards. It is an incredible expression of a noble terroir in a top vintage. While it has been fully mature for a number of years, it does not reveal any bricking at the edge, and I suspect it will stay at this level for another 10-15 years ... but why wait? It is irresistible now. Release price: ($1200.00/case)In Bond€8,045.00 -
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (97)
One of the stars of the vintage, the 2014 Haut-Brion is an exceptionally beautiful and vivid wine. Super-ripe dark cherry, plum, tobacco and menthol are some of the notes that run through the 2014. Just as it did from barrel, the 2014 boasts tons of opulence, intensity and richness. Dried flowers, tobacco, menthol, licorice and smoke wrap around the huge, baritone-inflected finish. Readers should not be in any rush with the 2014, as it is likely to require a number of years before it even starts to drink well. The blend is 50 % Merlot, 39 % Cabernet Sauvignon and 11 % Cabernet Franc.In Bond€2,600.00 -
James Suckling (98)
This is extremely aromatic and perfumed with crushed-berry, flower, currant and orange-peel character. Full-bodied, very tight and focused with fabulous depth and density that brings you down through the wine. Deep and serious. Very classic wine that reminds me of top Haut-Brions of the mid-1980s. Try after 2025.In Bond€2,675.00 -
James Suckling (100)
The black cassis comes out of the glass, together with iodine, sandalwood and subtle moss and wet-bark undertones, then turning to violets. The palate is mind-blowing, with a cashmere texture that unravels on the palate and continues on for minutes. It’s full of superbly complex, ethereal character and mouth-feel, One of the wines of the vintage. As glorious as it may be to taste now, this is one for your deep cellar. Try in 2029.In Bond€3,210.00 -
Jeb Dunnuck (100)
I finished my trip through Bordeaux with the 2020 Château Haut-Brion, and it was certainly a fitting cap to the trip. Revealing a deep ruby/plum hue, the 2020 exhibits extraordinary aromatics of ripe black fruits, scorched earth, cold fireplace, and acacia flowers. An absolute blockbuster on the palate, this structured, full-bodied, massively concentrated Pessac builds incrementally, with ultra-fine tannins, a deep, layered mid-palate, and a great, great finish. Richer and more concentrated than both the 2018 and 2019 (there are some similarities to 2010), this is a legend in the making. The blend is 42.8% Merlot, 39.7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the balance Cabernet Franc, all of which will spend 15-18 months in 77% new French oak. Hide bottles for a decade, and it should evolve for 50-75 years.In Bond€3,135.00 -
The Wine Independent (98-100)
A blend of 52.3% Merlot, 38.6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 9.1% Cabernet Franc, the 2023 Haut-Brion has a pH of 3.7 and a deep garnet-purple color. It is quite closed to begin, needing a lot of patient swirling to coax out notes of plum preserves, black cherry compote, and wild blueberries, leading to perfumed hints of peonies, crushed stones, rose bud tea, and licorice, with a touch of wood smoke. The medium to full- bodied palate delivers black and blue fruit layers that shimmy and swirl in the mouth with jaw-dropping energy, accented by mineral and exotic spice notes and supported with a firm backbone and plush, plush tannins, finishing with a breathtaking firework display. Very clever wine!In Bond€2,233.00 -
Jeb Dunnuck (99)
The white of the vintage is the 2016 Haut Brion Blanc, a Sauvignon-dominated blend that includes just under 30% Sémillon. Amazingly deep and rich, yet vibrant at the same time, it offers an exotic, liquid rock-like minerality as well as notes of citrus zest, crushed limes, and white flowers. It’s unquestionably one of the most concentrated, powerful wines out there, yet it still just glides across the palate with flawless integration of its fruit and acidity. It needs short-term cellaring and will keep for 20-30 years if you’re so inclined.In Bond€6,180.00 -
James Suckling (94-95)
A lovely, dense white with pretty phenolic tension and dried-apple and peach character. Medium to full body. Phenolics give this tension.In Bond€962.00 -
James Suckling (95-96)
This has fascinating, smoky, bark, dried-meat and crushed-berry character. It’s full-bodied with crushed stone, tobacco and dried meat. Extremely long and flavorful.In Bond€756.00 -
James Suckling (96-97)
Very plush and tannic with full body and lots of structure and intensity. Top second wine. Very solid and quite muscular with fine tannins and texture.In Bond€1,080.00 -
James Suckling (94-95)
Lots of iodine and oyster-shell aromas, together with blackberry and black cherry, following through to a medium to full body. Polished yet slightly chewy tannins and a fresh finish. Grilled orange. 70.4% merlot, 18.2% cabernet sauvignon and 11.4% cabernet franc.In Bond€895.00 -
The Wine Independent (91-93)
A blend of 55.5% Merlot, 40.9% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3.6% Cabernet Franc, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion 2023 is deep garnet-purple in color. It needs a lot of shaking to wake up scents of fresh black and red currants, raspberry leaves, and star anise, leading to touches of mossy tree bark and wet slate. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers a firm frame of grainy tannins and well knit freshness to support the spritely fruit, finishing with a savory lift.In Bond€699.00
