Matthew Jukes (19+)

Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine.

Vinous (97)

The 2021 Chardonnay Reed Vineyard is pure, harmonious and suave, caressing the mouth with its gentle texture and purity. It's not showy but a wine worth getting to know: it provides cognitive and sensory pleasure. You can expect almond, oatmeal, smoky nuts and party popper aromas. Yes, party poppers. I really love the smell of party poppers, so I want to keep smelling this and having a little party shimmy. Pure and textural with a gourmand character that will make you want to lick your cheeks to keep tasting it. Already good; this is going to be great.

James Suckling (98)

An exceptional vintage for this wine, with such intense aromas of lime and sweet flowers, as well as hints of white nectarine and wet stone in the background. The palate has density and sleekly refined shape that drives so long. Lime juice throughout, and some almost pithy density builds into the finish, supported by driving acidity. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2026 and a number of years after that. Screw cap.

Burghound (86-89)

A super-fresh nose freely reveals its aromas of ripe red and dark berries trimmed in ample earth nuances. The rich and seductively textured middleweight flavors possess solid size and weight before concluding in a long if moderately rustic finale. This is a quality effort for its level

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (88-91)

Last to be picked, with plenty of rot to sort out. A deeper purple than the Bourgogne. Marvellous density of deep raspberry fruit. Generous and very pure, with some black raspberry fruit, luscious more than precise but a wine it will be easy to fall in love with. Drink from 2024-2027.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (95-98)

5 Star Wine. A rich dark purple. The nose is astonishing because of its definition. It is a slightly darker and certainly less lushly appealing style. Peppery notes are in balance but the volume of fruit surmounts. This is a fine and very noble example which could well leap ahead of the 2020 in the rankings. There is such a wealth of fruit, on the cusp of red and black, which returns in the very long finish. Bravo. Drink from 2030-2040.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (96-98)

5 Star Wine. An astonishing rich imperial purple colour. Possibly it wins in density over and above the Clos de Vougeot. It doesn’t stun me as much as last year because it is no longer my first experience! An all-enveloping dark raspberry, silky as well as lush, dotted with pepper, with an almost endless finish. Grapes beautifully grown and then seamlessly made. Drink from 2030-2040.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (86-88)

Again quite a full yellow. The nose is full of apples and the palate brings out the chiselled hillside aspect but there is still some flesh. He has kept CO2 high (1100-1200) and this assists the final crisp aftertaste. But this is not really my wine. Drink from 2024-2026.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (89-92)

Fullish yellow, some apples but riper here than the Coteaux Bourguignons. A little touch of oak, 25% new. This really comes into its own on the palate, still showing some oak and a bit of bacon fat but the ripe apples now give it plenty of flesh. Not mainstream but a thoroughly interesting wine. Picked a week before the reds. Drink from 2024-2027.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (89-92)

A rich deep purple. the nose too is luxurious, with a touch of coconut as well. Totally fills the mouth but there is just a little more precision than the Chorey. The fruit and the coconut make me think of Lamingtons. As long as the coconut dies down this will be pretty impressive. Drink from 2025-2030.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-96)

Medium to dark purple. Pepper and spice up front along with some remarkably refined fruit. The intensity is compact at the front then opens out much more behind, with black raspberry becoming more apparent. The intensity is impressive for 2021 and the natural balance undeniable. Sweet fruit finish. Drink from 2028-2035.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (94-96)

A deep bright purple. The nose has the characteristic (of Brûlées) smoky struck flint note to it, which adds complexity to the red fruit which is as abundant here as the other wines. Lush in the middle then a structure which tames the extrovert nature, a good point of acidity alongside ripe tannins, and some darker fruit to finish. Potentially extremely fine. Drink from 2028-2035.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (92-94)

5 Star Wine. On arriving in Vosne-Romanée we do discover another level of elegance. A fresh but quite deep purple. An essential concentration of deep dark fruit, but this time with an absolute feeling of precision. Lifted, racy, electric, spicy with a depth of concentrated mostly raspberry fruit. We are getting there! Drink from 2026-2032.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (92-95)

Not deeper in colour, perhaps just a touch brighter even than the village Vosne. An even finer detail, with more precision, still just a note too much of new oak. Broader shoulders, more structure behind, which tames the fruit and stops it getting soupy. An exceptional intensity of liquid raspberry with great persistence. Drink from 2027-2033.

Wine Advocate (95+)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is showing brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, honeycomb, white flowers, orange oil and wheat toast. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and muscular, with lively acids and an impressively structured, introverted profile for the vintage, concluding with a long, saline finish.

Vinous (96+)

Impressing from the first tilt of the glass, the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino makes itself known, with a heady burst of exotic spice and crushed ashen stone giving way to dried black cherries and grilled herbs. This combines the energy of the vintage with the dark balsamic-tinged fruits of Montalcino’s southern reaches, as zesty acidity maintains balance throughout, and flinty minerals saturate toward the close. It finishes long, savory and structured, yet its tannins are more rounded than anticipated, creating both a classic feel, but also leaving a mouthwatering sensation that tricks the taster back to the glass for more. Easily one of the top wines of the vintage, the 2018 is not to be missed.

Jeb Dunnuck (97)

A rock star Margaux that should be snatched up by readers, the 2018 Château Marquis D'Alesme reveals a dense purple hue as well as ripe, sexy notes of blackcurrants, spicy oak, tobacco leaf, earth, and cedar. Deep, full-bodied, and gorgeously concentrated, it has velvety tannins, a layered, mouthcoating texture, and a great finish. It's a baby, but wow, what a wine. Hide bottle for 5-7 years if you can (you'll be forgiven for opening a bottle early) and it's going to evolve for 30-40 years.

Halliday Wine Companion (99)

Stands proudly at the head of the Mount Mary portfolio. A blend of 44% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 16% cabernet franc and 5% each of malbec and petit verdot, each variety handled according to its structure. Open/static fermenters, wood/stainless steel, 10-14 days on skins, 35% new oak from a range of coopers and forests, 16-20 months in barrel. Mesmerisingly silky, with a kaleidoscope of fruit and secondary flavours.

Wine Advocate (97)

The 2018 St Henri Shiraz is a terrific effort, perhaps rivaling the top-flight wines under this label in 1976 and 1986. Remarkably fine and silky in texture yet simultaneously dense and concentrated, it showcases the amazing fruit harvested in 2018. Boysenberry, mulberry and mocha shadings all swirl together effortlessly in a whorl of full-bodied elegance, finishing long and effortless. Mainly Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, it includes smaller amounts of fruit from Port Lincoln, Robe, Padthaway, Clare Valley and the Adelaide Hills, all aged 12 months in large old wooden vats.

Wine Advocate (97)

The 2018 Pinot Noir La Rinconada Vineyard is expressive and powerful this vintage! Pale ruby-purple in color, it features rhubarb and raspberry preserves with nuances of tangerine, rooibos tea leaves and cast iron. The palate explodes with iron-laced fruits and offers flourishes of floral perfume. It has abundant, grainy tannins and bursts of fresh acidity that call you back for another sip on the long finish.