Richard Juhlin (95)

It was time for the good James to enjoy one of the most magnificent champagnes for the release of the 25th Bond film. The decision to use Pinot Noir for this 2011 vintage, exclusively from the home village of Aÿ with its mighty fruit is nothing short of brilliant. Perhaps wait about ten years until the wine has reached its peak and completely integrated its enormous fruit with the barrel notes, but the wine is already magnificent with its deep ripe aroma of Gravenstein apples, backed by fresh wooden notes. House typical and powerful.

Richard Juhlin (95)

It was time for the good James to enjoy one of the most magnificent champagnes for the release of the 25th Bond film. The decision to use Pinot Noir for this 2011 vintage, exclusively from the home village of Aÿ with its mighty fruit is nothing short of brilliant. Perhaps wait about ten years until the wine has reached its peak and completely integrated its enormous fruit with the barrel notes, but the wine is already magnificent with its deep ripe aroma of Gravenstein apples, backed by fresh wooden notes. House typical and powerful.

Falstaff (98)

An immediate nuttiness of grilled hazelnut along with freshly cut red apple peel, an edge of white pepper and melted candlewax mark the nose – very unusual. With air, this slowly verges onto baked skin of plum. That nuttiness is also apparent on the palate with a real phenolic and textural element, there is much density, almost a chewiness. Very fine acidity runs through this wine, expressing the customary Bollinger creaminess, underlined by finest foam, revealing a lovely hint of pithy bitterness, more pepper and nuances of ripeness expressed by baking spice. A most gastronomic Champagne and only at the beginning of a long trajectory.

Jancis Robinson MW (19)

Disgorged October 2010. Tasted blind. Something a bit rubbery on the nose but very tense and exciting. Is this the 2008? Tense and vibrant, with lots of complexity and persistence. Impressive for its age.

Jeb Dunnuck (99)

The 2008 La Grande Année is another brilliant 2008 that delivers the goods. Straight-up awesome notes of stone fruits, white flowers, honeysuckle, and an incredible, liquid rock-like minerality all emerge from the glass, and it develops more nuance, spice, toasted bread, and an almost Alsatian Riesling-like petrol character over the course of the evening. It’s a full-bodied, rich, powerful Champagne, yet like the top 2008s, it has brilliant precision, purity, and focus. It’s unquestionably one of the finest versions of this cuvée ever produced, although it needs another 4-5 years of bottle age to hit prime time. It should keep for 3-4 decades. Bravo!

Wine Spectator (97)

This goes from zero to 60 right out of the gate, with an intense spine of acidity driving tightly meshed flavors of crushed black currant, ground coffee, candied grapefruit peel and toasted almond. The profile expands on the palate, carried by the fine, raw silk–like mousse. Richly aromatic and expressive from start to lasting, spiced finish. Disgorged July 2019. Drink now through 2037. 850 cases imported.

Essi Avallen MW (96-98)

At this point of youthfulness the pink colour is rather rich and bright. Lovely clean and fruit-forward nose with fresh red berry aromas mixing with spice and orange notes. Quite shyly evolved with much more to surface on the complexity front. Today there is attractive exuberant fruitiness and perfect creamy freshness. Promising palate with power and persistence where an overall harmony enhances the feeling of sophistication.

Richard Juhlin (95)

The presentation is brilliant and is reminiscent of the house's legendary blanc de noirs Bollinger ’Vieilles Vignes Françaises’….. A Verzenay blanc de noirs with sprinkles of Aÿ, Bouzy and Tauxières, where 50% of the wine comes from 2015 with reserve wines on magnum dating from 2009. Verzenay and Aÿ are, as you know, the dominant villages in Bollinger's vintage wines. Verzenay is often the chalky and mineral-rich backbone of Bollinger's vintage build-up. The wine is vibrantly fresh, mineral-driven and extremely pure. There is a clarity and sharpness that is outstanding, where gunpowder notes and aroma of grilled meat develop as the glass warms up slightly. I love this wine as it is a perfect creation from one of the most important villages in the whole of Champagne dominated by the aforementioned minerality, but also with notes of violet and red grapefruit so typical of Verzenay of the highest class. On aeration the scent develops more and more notes of pears, figs and freshly baked baguette and the taste develops towards peach and apricot jam. Personally, though, I will wait as long as I can before opening my own bottles to get the increasing depth of caramel and grilled hazelnut flavour that only time in the cellar can provide.

Richard Juhlin (95)

The presentation is brilliant and is reminiscent of the house's legendary blanc de noirs Bollinger ’Vieilles Vignes Françaises’….. A Verzenay blanc de noirs with sprinkles of Aÿ, Bouzy and Tauxières, where 50% of the wine comes from 2015 with reserve wines on magnum dating from 2009. Verzenay and Aÿ are, as you know, the dominant villages in Bollinger's vintage wines. Verzenay is often the chalky and mineral-rich backbone of Bollinger's vintage build-up. The wine is vibrantly fresh, mineral-driven and extremely pure. There is a clarity and sharpness that is outstanding, where gunpowder notes and aroma of grilled meat develop as the glass warms up slightly. I love this wine as it is a perfect creation from one of the most important villages in the whole of Champagne dominated by the aforementioned minerality, but also with notes of violet and red grapefruit so typical of Verzenay of the highest class. On aeration the scent develops more and more notes of pears, figs and freshly baked baguette and the taste develops towards peach and apricot jam. Personally, though, I will wait as long as I can before opening my own bottles to get the increasing depth of caramel and grilled hazelnut flavour that only time in the cellar can provide.

Decanter (95)

Produced exclusively from vineyards owned by Bollinger, this takes advantage of the dynamic equilibrium between the structured, robust Pinot Noir grape and a terroir that is late-ripening. Picking began on 25 September and delivered a wine with plenty of concentration and impressive freshness and balance, with expressive green apple fruit accented with notes of toast and smoke and a creamy, supple, and open texture. Dosed at 6 g/l. Disgorged in November 2020.

James Suckling (99)

It's striking that is as fresh as it is given the ten years in the cellars. It has a fine citrus nose with plenty of lemons, grapefruit and yellow chalky notes, not to mention some lighter floral elements. The palate is super dry (dosage at 3-4g), and there's a silky, sherbet-like texture that makes this smooth fine and long. The citrus flavors give way to the surging acidity and the finish twists very slowly through to lightly toasted cashew nuts mingled with complex fruit and citrus flavors. Disgorged October 22, 2013.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

The latest release of R.D. – Bollinger’s iconic ‘Recently Disgorged or Récemment Dégorgé’ wine is something completely out of the ordinary. My one-word description for this sensational wine is ‘controlled’. I say this because what I adore about every single vintage of R.D. which I have tasted (and there have been many – see below) is the seeming lack of control in every sip. R.D. should be and usually is an absurdly decadent and unpredictable wine, firing off ostentatious flavour and extraordinary detail in every direction. This is why I love it so much and also why I only open it on very special occasions! What is remarkable about this particular vintage is its restraint and levity coupled with the extraordinary length of finish. After 14 years on lees, this wine is as power-packed and energised as it could possibly be and with the extra edge and vivacity coming from a fulsome percentage of Verzenay Pinot fruit (29%) added to the usual heartbeat coming from the Aÿ Pinot core (26%) this is a dynamic red fruit-dominant cocktail. The overall blend is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay coming from 14 Crus with 91% Grands Crus in this vintage. The dosage is a keen 3 grams per litre and all disgorgement is done by hand, as usual. But in 2007 the result is atypical, enchanting, surprisingly refreshing and amazingly delicious. I opened this bottle at 11.00 am and did not stopper it for a full 12 hours. I even sneaked half a glass with a chicken curry at supper time and it worked like a dream. This is not a massive firework of a wine that explodes gloriously and then is gone. Instead, it is a blazing torch of flavour with phenomenal persistence and balance and this makes it unmissable in every serious Champagne lover’s cellar.

Wine Advocate (100)

Disgorged in September 2020 with four grams per liter dosage, Bollinger's 2008 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is one of the monumental wines of this great vintage. Soaring from the glass with a generous, honeyed bouquet of pear, orange rind, dried fruits, mocha and toasted bread, it's full-bodied, textural and enveloping, with huge concentration, racy acids and a pillowy mousse. Vinous, rich and sumptuous, it concludes with an immensely long, resonant finish. Bollinger waited until the grapes of these ungrafted vines attained 11% potential alcohol before harvesting, and they have produced the most powerful wine of the vintage—as well as one of the most profound.

Wine Advocate (97)

Disgorged in 2019, Bollinger’s 2009 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises offers a deep bouquet of ripe pear, peach and beeswax, mingling with notes of candied orange zest and pastries. On the palate, it is full-bodied, layered and vinous, revealing a core of concentrated fruit that gives way to a long, enveloping finish with Pinot Noir phenolics emerging gracefully. Enjoyed on its own, the 2009 leaves little to be desired—but when compared directly with the more expressive and harmonious 2004, the choice of which glass to refill first becomes instantly apparent. Given the small production volumes of Vieilles Vignes Françaises, revisiting this rendition in the future may prove challenging. However, for those fortunate enough to possess a bottle, my advice is to wait until 2030 before opening it, in order to experience it at its fullest expression.

Vinous (93)

The 2015 Matriarch is an absolutely gorgeous second wine from BOND that benefits from the diversity of fruit sources that go into the blend. That is quite obvious when comparing Matriarch to The Maiden, the second wine of Harlan Estate, which draws from a more narrow set of parcels. Ripe red and purplish berry fruit, blood orange, mint and floral notes all grace this exquisitely silky, captivating wine from BOND. The 2015 Matriarch is just gorgeous.

Jeb Dunnuck (94-96)

Almost all Grenache (there are splashes of Cinsault and Clairette), the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape A La Gloire De Mon Grand-Père was 50% destemmed and brought up in a mix of foudres and demi-muids. It has a riper, sexy bouquet of kirsch liqueur, black raspberries, toasted spices, dried flowers, and sweet Provençal garrigue to go with a full-bodied, beautifully textured, seamless style on the palate. It still has a classic feel, yet there’s certainly more fruit and opulence here compared to the more concentrated, masculine style of the Chante Le Merle cuvée. This beauty is going to drink nicely right out of the gate and cruise for 15-20 years as well.

Jeb Dunnuck (94-96)

Moving to the old vine cuvée, which is a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes reveals a deeper ruby/purple color as well as a richer, slightly more powerful bouquet of blackcurrants, jammy black cherries, roasted garrigue, black licorice, and assorted background notes of spicy meatiness. It’s full-bodied and has a beautiful mid-palate, building tannins, and a great finish. This is another classic yet ripe, pure, and beautifully balanced wine from this estate that will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and keep for 15+ years or more.

Vinous (93)

Bright violet. Expressive aromas of cherry cola, red berries, pungent herbs and lavender, plus a hint of smoked meat in the background. Shows strong, energetic lift to the bitter cherry and black raspberry flavors, which turn sweeter through the back half. Closes with strong tenacity and interwoven tannins that lend discreet, firming grip.

Jeb Dunnuck (95-97)

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Folie might not match the magical 2016, but it’s no less a brilliant wine with a subtle modern style in its black raspberry, kirsch liqueur, cassis, peppery garrigue, and spice-driven aromas and flavors. Always the most modern style cuvée in the lineup (it sees a small amount of new oak), it nevertheless never loses its Southern Rhône soul and is full-bodied, flawlessly balanced, with ripe, seamless tannins and a great finish. This wine is roughly 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre that was all destemmed. It should drink well with 2-3 years of bottle age and keep nicely for 15 years or more in cold cellars.

Vinous (90-92)

The 2021 Beaune Clos de la Mousse 1er Cru comes from vines on a flat, dense clay soil, that are among the last to be picked. The wine has plenty of dark berry, cold black tea and light sea spray scents on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, plush tannins that lend this rondeur, harmonious with a sweet, almost candied finish. This will be more approachable than the Les Teurons, though it does not possess the same complexity.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (91-94)

Medium deep purple. A little oak almost masking the slight reduction. Clears up and integrates, bringing a darker raspberry fruit. A certain sucrosity on the palate followed by the typical firm tannins which make this wine a vin de garde in most vintages. This is really quite backward and should keep well. Drink from 2027-2033

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-97)

A low key lemon and lime colour. Clean fresh and classic on the nose. A very typical fresh stony palate, lightly washed in citrus, with enough flesh to provide the body necessary for ageing, and a fine, long, persistently mineral finish. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: November 2022

Decanter (97)

Bouchard’s holding here is superb: 0.90ha on the edge of the Puligny side at midslope between Ramonet and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. In 2019, Bouchard emphasised the richness by picking this parcel last. Ripe apples, white flowers and even a touch of honey make their appearance on the nose, while the texture on the palate is unctuous and deep without being heavy. There is still enough freshness to keep this lively through the intensely long finish.

Vinous - Neal Martin (97)

The 2021 Montrachet Grand Cru has an elegant bouquet that opens in the glass with crushed stone and light oily/resinous scents, nuanced yet focused with glimpses of tropical fruit though it never impedes. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh, precise and mineral-driven. There is an understated element in this "Monty" that is very appealing and it feels reassuringly persistent on the finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

Vinous (92)

The 2019 Barolo is a gorgeous entry-level offering from Brezza. In fact, it's one of the best editions of this wine I can remember tasting. Bright, translucent and full of character, the straight Barolo is all charm. Crushed red berry fruit, orange peel, sage, mint and sweet spice all lend notable complexity throughout. Vineyard sites are San Lorenzo, Fossati, Ravera (Novello) and Bricco San Pietro. Fruit is harvested and vinified separately, then the lots are blended before malolactic fermentation.

Vinous (95)

The 2019 Barolo Cannubi is one of the best wines I have tasted from Brezza in a very long time. Sweet, perfumed and silky, the 2019 bristles with Cannubi character. Crushed red berry fruit, cedar, mint, rose petal and orange zest are some of the notes that grace this exquisite but potent Barolo. Give the tannins a few years to soften.

Vinous (94)

The 2019 Barolo Castellero is a deep, beguiling wine. Deeply pitched spice, menthol, licorice and dried herbs meld into a core of dark-toned fruit. Virile and imposing, with notable inner sweetness, the Castellero is stunning. There's a bit of new oak influence, but it is not dominant. This is another superb Barolo from Brezza.

Decanter (97)

Brezza is dedicated to organic viticulture, and works only with indigenous yeast, big oak vessels and long macerations in the cellar. His 2019 Sarmassa is one of the most elegant Barolos of the vintage, if not the most. Bright ruby in the glass and vibrant on the nose, the tannins are impeccable. Plenty of Parma violet notes are to the fore, soaked with rhubarb root, liquorice stick and a whiff of yellow fruits. The attack is poised, soft and silky, with long, lifted acidity. There is a perfect extraction here – the tannins are very well judged and ripe.

Vinous (90)

The 2019 Barbera d'Alba Ciabot del Fi emerges from a vineyard in Serralunga. Deep and fleshy in the glass, the 2019 is packed with dark fruit, leather, spice, dried herbs, menthol and licorice. The 2019 was aged in cask, which helps round some of the edges while preserving plenty of intensity.

Vinous (88)

The 2019 Barbera d'Alba Sorì del Drago is a powerful, brooding wine laced with dark black fruit, licorice, gravel, smoke and dried herbs. This heady, explosive Barbera packs a serious punch. Vineyard sites are Brea, Gianetto and Garblèt Sue'.