Wine Advocate (99)

One of the pinnacles of the tasting with Selosse, unsurprisingly, is the NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Substance, a wine with the most complex making, going through four stages of maturation: from barrels to the bottle. As always, it derives from a solera created in 1986. Originally, the wine was sourced from two parcels in Avize, but today the base wine (which eventually contributes only about 4.8% to the final blend in the bottle) is produced from a selection of plots in the village. Guillaume opted to include parcels that best fit the desired balance—sometimes these will be south-facing, other times east or even north-facing sites. Muscular and multidimensional, it jumps from the glass with a bouquet of kaleidoscopic complexity, featuring notes of orange zest, spices, beeswax, toasted hazelnuts and dried fig. On the palate, it is full-bodied, vinous and textural yet searingly chalky—even more mineral than Les Chantereines. Guillaume Selosse remarks that oxidation during maturation (and through multiple transfers between different vessels) frees the wine from fruit in a classic sense, leaving mostly chalky extract and enhancing its mineral aspect. Every time I taste at this great domaine, I vacillate between Substance and the lieux-dits as to which wine best defines this benchmark producer. The latest release was disgorged in July 2024 with 1.5 grams per liter dosage and promises a concentrated, unforgettable drinking experience.

Wine Advocate (93+)

Mugnier's 2015 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale is a terrific success in the 2015 vintage and is strongly reminiscent of the excellent 2005 rendition, opening in the glass with aromas of creamy cassis, ripe cherry, dark chocolate and grilled squab. On the palate, the wine is deep, full-bodied and sapid, with succulent acids, an ample chassis of rich tannins and excellent length. This is one of the rare cases of a great Burgundy from a great domaine that is available in some volume, and no one should fixate on Mugnier's Chambolles at the expense of this lovely Nuits.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru, which is usually the first to be picked, has a really delightful bouquet, very expressive and displaying fine mineralité. The precise, detailed palate is well balanced, offering mineral tension, a fine line of acidity and a crisp, vibrant finish. Superb.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru, which is usually the first to be picked, has a really delightful bouquet, very expressive and displaying fine mineralité. The precise, detailed palate is well balanced, offering mineral tension, a fine line of acidity and a crisp, vibrant finish. Superb.

Vinous (90-92)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru was tasted from a blend of five cuvées. It has an attractive bouquet of mainly black fruit laced with black tea and bay leaf notes, plus touches of rose petal in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, tending more toward a red fruit profile, with wonderful salinity on the finish. Good potential. Excellent.

Vinous (90-92)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru was tasted from a blend of five cuvées. It has an attractive bouquet of mainly black fruit laced with black tea and bay leaf notes, plus touches of rose petal in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, tending more toward a red fruit profile, with wonderful salinity on the finish. Good potential. Excellent.

Vinous (90-92)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has quite an open and expressive bouquet with blackberry, crushed rock and undergrowth, almost peaty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite gritty in texture and tight with a saline finish. This will require 3-4 years. It is a bit abrasive at the moment and needs to be tempered by time.

Vinous - Neal Martin (90)

The 2021 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has a simple nose with brambly red fruit, briar and a discreet marine influence in the background. Nuanced but nicely focused with assiduous use of oak. The palate is well balanced with more saturated pliable tannins than its peers. A tad more extraction is evident towards the finish with dark fruit and a relatively polished mouthfeel. Give this two or three years in bottle. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.