Wine Advocate (100)

My pick of Chapoutier's 2015 Ermitage bottlings on this occasion was the 2015 Ermitage l'Ermite. It just edged out the other wines for its incredible purity of cassis fruit, indelible intensity and massive concentration. Size doesn't matter if the other elements aren't there, but this wine is complex, balanced and long, a true tour de force. Hints of crushed stone, peppery spice and grilled meat are in the background right now, partially submerged under the waves of fruit and ripe tannins, so give it a decade or so to shed some of that puppy fat and reveal its true nature.

Wine Advocate (100)

The 2017 Ermitage l'Ermite is equally astounding but a completely different expression of Hermitage. Somehow this combines the reservedness of le Pavillon with the generosity of le Méal, resulting in a wine that I can only describe as perfect. The pristine cassis fruit is remarkably pure, joined by complex notes of crushed stone, salted licorice and the slightest hints of fine-grained oak. It's full-bodied, concentrated and velvety in texture, with oodles of chewy but ripe tannins and a finish that goes on for minutes.

Wine Advocate (100)

Marked by sensationally deep notes of crushed stone, cassis and blueberry, the 2019 Ermitage l'Ermite is a tremendous effort and a worthy rival to the wines produced in the past four vintages. Full-bodied, it's rich and restrained, expansive yet structured—just a complete wine from mouthwatering aromas to velvety mouthfeel and long, stony finish. While delicious now, I'd expect it to close up shortly, yet still be going strong two decades from now. Wow!

Wine Advocate (100)

Marked by sensationally deep notes of crushed stone, cassis and blueberry, the 2019 Ermitage l'Ermite is a tremendous effort and a worthy rival to the wines produced in the past four vintages. Full-bodied, it's rich and restrained, expansive yet structured—just a complete wine from mouthwatering aromas to velvety mouthfeel and long, stony finish. While delicious now, I'd expect it to close up shortly, yet still be going strong two decades from now. Wow!

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

In the same qualitative ballpark as the Pavillon, the 2020 Ermitage L'Ermite is even tighter and more chiseled. It too is perfectly proportioned and insanely pure, with notes of crème de cassis, burning embers, blueberries, camphor, charcoal, and crushed stone. While the soils here are less granitic than from the Bessards, this cuvée always seems to show even more minerality in every vintage I've tasted. Incredibly concentrated, full-bodied, and yet still flawlessly balanced and elegant, it needs to be hidden in the back of the cellar for 10-15 years and should have 50 years of overall longevity.

Wine Advocate (100)

This is one of the greatest dry white wines I have ever tasted. The 1999 Ermitage l'Ermite is a liquid mineral, crystalline expression. It is the essence of its grape as well as terroir. It may be the greatest expression of terroir I have seen outside of a handful of Alsatian Rieslings (Clos Ste. Hune comes to mind). It has that transparent character that terroiristes talk more about than actually recognize. Drinking it is like consuming a liquified stony concoction mixed with white flowers, licorice, and honeyed fruits. It is frightfully pure, dense, and well-delineated. As I said last year, There is no real fruit character, just glycerin, alcohol, and liquid stones. That's about it, but, wow, what an expression! Anticipated maturity: 2012-2050. This is for the connoisseur of rare wines. Along with Gerard and Jean-Louis Chave, Chapoutier is producing the finest expressions of white Hermitage. His single vineyard cuvees are to die for if you like these eccentric, idiosyncratic, mammoth dry whites.

Wine Advocate (100)

White wine simply doesn't get any better than the 2012 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc. A massive, concentrated, yet insanely pure and focused effort, it has an incredible bouquet (almond paste, orange rind, caramelized peach), full-bodied richness, no hard edges and finish that just won't quit. Of all the 2012 whites, this has the most minerality, purity and precision. I'd happily drink it anytime over the coming 3-4 decades.

Wine Advocate (100)

Completing a trifecta of perfect whites, the 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite Blanc is another sensational effort that offers incredible minerality/liquid rock in its pineapple, tangerine, flower oil, mint and caramelized citrus-driven bouquet. Full-bodied and beautiful on the palate, with more tension and focus than the Cuvee de L’Orée or le Meal, it has perfectly balanced richness, structure and freshness, with no hard edges and a blockbuster finish. It won't be accessible for another 3-4 years and will most likely be immortal in the cellar.

Wine Advocate (100)

One of the most singular wines I’m able to taste each year is unquestionably the l’Ermite Blanc from Chapoutier and it certainly lives up to the billing in 2015. Offering what I can only describe as a liquid rock (a liqueur of rocks?) character intermixed with notes of buttered citrus, pineapple, smoked meats, charcoal and toast, the 2015 Ermitage l’Ermite is full-bodied, decadent and locked and loaded on the palate. It needs 2-3 years of cellaring and I suspect will keep for half a century

Wine Advocate (100)

As in 2016, my favorite of the white parcel selections this year is the 2017 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc (231 cases produced), as it perfectly balances richness and power with refinement and structure. Toasted brioche and citrus marmalade, honey and truffle notes deliver sheer full-bodied, mouth-filling decadence, supported by austere notes of crushed granite, zesty grapefruit rind and cooling brine. Huge and intense yet refreshing, it's the essence of granite-grown Marsanne.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Another truly flawless wine from this dream team is the 2018 Ermitage L’Ermite Blanc, which comes from a vineyard located at the top of Hermitage Hill and was brought up in 20-25% new demi-muids. Offering a magical bouquet of liqueur of rock, quince, poached pears, orange blossom, and honeysuckle, it's a powerful, super-rich, expressive, full-bodied white that could come from nowhere else in the world. It's approachable today (it needs plenty of air) yet won't hit prime for another 7-8 years or so.

Wine Advocate (100)

Since I reviewed the 2019 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc last year (98+), I had some doubts about spending the time to re-review it. But one taste had me transfixed. Hints of crushed stone and subtle oak appear on the nose, backed by waves of honeyed pear and pineapple, plus enough invigorating citrus to provide a sense of freshness. Full-bodied and rich without being heavy, this has come into its own, being incredibly long, balanced and ethereal on the finish. Amazing stuff!

Wine Advocate (100)

Even inkier in color than the 2010, the 2009 Ermitage le Meal is as good as Hermitage gets. Locked and loaded with phenomenal notes of jammy black raspberries, creme de cassis, crushed violets, smoked earth and spice, it's thick and unctuous on the palate, with incredible density, a huge mid-palate and a layered, multi-dimensional, seamless, elegant texture that just keeps you coming back and begging for another sip. More hedonistic and voluptuous than the 2010, it should still evolve for just as long, yet have even a broader drink window.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

A perfect wine, the 2015 Ermitage Le Méal offers straight-up otherworldly notes of black raspberries, toasted spices, licorice, scorched earth and flowers. With a huge, unctuous profile on the palate, a stacked mid-palate, sweet, sweet tannin and awesome purity, it's as good as it gets. This cuvée is always one of the more forward, sexy wines in the lineup, but it still needs 4-6 years of bottle age and will keep for 2-3 decades.

Wine Advocate (100)

Always the earliest-ripening portion of the Chapoutier holdings on the Hermitage hill, the 2017 Ermitage le Méal is a complete standout. Crème de framboise notes remain fresh and lively throughout, joined by hints of blueberry, baking spices and vanilla, while the tannins are silky, the mouthfeel generous and the overall impression is one of great seductiveness and elegance.

Wine Advocate (100)

Easily the finest vintage of this cuvee to date, the 2013 Ermitage le Meal Blanc doesn’t give an inch to the more heralded Cuvee de L’Orée or l’Ermite. Pure perfection in a glass, with awesome caramelized citrus, pineapple, crushed rock, toasted bread and buttered peach, it’s full-bodied, massive and concentrated on the palate, with incredible purity, richness and length. As with the other top whites here, it needs a year or two in the cellar and will have 2-3 decades of longevity.

Wine Advocate (100)

Easily the finest vintage of this cuvee to date, the 2013 Ermitage le Meal Blanc doesn’t give an inch to the more heralded Cuvee de L’Orée or l’Ermite. Pure perfection in a glass, with awesome caramelized citrus, pineapple, crushed rock, toasted bread and buttered peach, it’s full-bodied, massive and concentrated on the palate, with incredible purity, richness and length. As with the other top whites here, it needs a year or two in the cellar and will have 2-3 decades of longevity.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

The richest and most fruit loaded of the trio is the 2019 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which comes from a warmer terroir. This killer Hermitage Blanc has a vivid gold hue as well as a crazy good nose of quince, honeyed currants, acacia flowers, spice, and orange marmalade. It doesn't have the minerality of the L'Ermite (and to a lesser extent, the De l’Orée) yet has a more opulent, fat, unctuous style that's still flawlessly balanced and remarkably pure. This is another magical Hermitage from Chapoutier that does everything right. I followed this bottle for multiple days and it only improved with air. It's certainly the more early drinking of these three single vineyard releases, yet it still deserves 2-4 years of bottle age and should keep for 30 years or more.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

I was blown away by the 2020 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which is certainly the finest vintage of this cuvée I’ve tasted. From the pure south-facing Méal lieu-dit (which is the warmest terroir on Hermitage), it was vinified and aged 70% demi-muids (10% new) and 30% in stainless steel. Straight-up heavenly notes of white currants, powdered rock, celery seed, honeysuckle, and toasted almonds all define the bouquet, and it’s full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, with that rare mix of richness and freshness. Hermitage Blanc doesn’t get any better. I love this today, yet it will certainly benefit from a year or two of bottle age, drink well for 3-5 years, at which point, it’s probably best to wait until a solid 15 years after the vintage.

Wine Advocate (100)

Every bit as profound as the 2010, yet in a more voluptuous, lower acid, hedonistic style, the inky colored 2009 Hermitage les Bessards (aged all in new French oak) offers incredible intensity and depth in its black raspberry, toasted bread, graphite and spice-like aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, massively endowed and with a wealth of raw material, it has high, yet sweet tannin and a finish that just won't quit. Give it 4-5 years and drink it over the following 3-4 decades. Unfortunately, this is made in tiny quantities, but count yourself lucky if you were able to grab a few bottles of either the '09 or '10.

Wine Advocate (100)

Every bit as phenomenal as the '10, yet in a completely different style, the 2009 Hermitage Ex Voto reveals a saturated inky color as well as layers of plums, black raspberries, candied violets, licorice and crushed rock. More voluptuous and extroverted than the '10, with an undeniably sexy, full-bodied, massively concentrated personality that just begs to be drunk, it will still evolve for decades on its sheer wealth of material.

Wine Advocate (100)

Every bit as phenomenal as the '10, yet in a completely different style, the 2009 Hermitage Ex Voto reveals a saturated inky color as well as layers of plums, black raspberries, candied violets, licorice and crushed rock. More voluptuous and extroverted than the '10, with an undeniably sexy, full-bodied, massively concentrated personality that just begs to be drunk, it will still evolve for decades on its sheer wealth of material.

Wine Advocate (100)

The 2010 Hermitage Ex Voto continues to top out on my scale. This extraordinary Hermitage has more minerality and delineation than the 2009, as well as overflowing aromas and flavors of creme de cassis, jammy blackberries, violets, graphite and wood smoke. Massively concentrated, full-bodied, decadent, layered and sexy, it needs short-term cellaring but should be just about immortal in the cellar.

Wine Advocate (100)

The 2010 Hermitage Ex Voto continues to top out on my scale. This extraordinary Hermitage has more minerality and delineation than the 2009, as well as overflowing aromas and flavors of creme de cassis, jammy blackberries, violets, graphite and wood smoke. Massively concentrated, full-bodied, decadent, layered and sexy, it needs short-term cellaring but should be just about immortal in the cellar.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

The 2015 Hermitage Ex Voto Blanc is certainly in the same league as the 2009 and 2010, and it’s going to be interesting to compare these vintages over the coming 2-3+ decades. The 2015 has all the hallmarks of a great vintage with its huge bouquet of quince, toasted almonds, brioche, liquid rocks, and honeysuckle as well as touch of licorice. Sensationally concentrated, opulent, and multi-dimensional on the palate, it has bright acidity and an awesome sense of minerality that keep the wine chiseled and focused on the palate. It has the structure of a red wine and will keep for 4-5 decades. Bravo!

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Built for the long haul, the 2018 Ermitage Ex Voto Blanc is a majestic, noble white that could only come from this incredible, south-facing hillside in Hermitage. Revealing a light gold hue as well as notes of quince, honeyed minerality, toasted spices, orange marmalade, and spring flowers, this deep, rich, and full-bodied white has absorbed just about every trace of its oak élevage and has a concentrated, rich, yet focused and lengthy style. This cuvée had a more oaky, opulent style in the past, but today it comes across as a much more pure, elegant wine while not giving an inch with regard to density, texture, and concentration. As with just about every top Hermitage Blanc today, this offers plenty of immediate pleasure with its pure, fresh, mineral-laced style. Don't discount how much pleasure these wines can offer in their youth and always ignore the "always too young" crowd. This 2018 is going to evolve gracefully and drink brilliantly for 5-7 years, then (maybe) go into a closed, almost oxidative stage, only to emerge after 5-7 years and evolve for decades.

Wine Advocate (100)

Last year I gave the 2009 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin a three-digit rating, but it was nice to be able to re-taste it since it is largely impossible to find in the marketplace. Essentially 100% fruit from Les Bessards, this cuvee is only made in vintages where it will not compromise the integrity and quality of their standard Hermitage (although there is nothing standard about it). The Cuvee Cathelin sees more oak than its sibling, enjoys 50-75 years of aging potential, and boasts over-the-top blackberry and cassis fruit notes intertwined with pen ink, spring flower, graphite and subtle vanillin characteristics. It is a brilliant wine that almost defies description given its ethereal complexity allied to massive weight, power and richness. Yet, it never comes across as heavy or overly-extracted. Forget this for another decade and you and your progeny can enjoy it over the following 50-75 years.

Wine Advocate (100)

Last year I gave the 2009 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin a three-digit rating, but it was nice to be able to re-taste it since it is largely impossible to find in the marketplace. Essentially 100% fruit from Les Bessards, this cuvee is only made in vintages where it will not compromise the integrity and quality of their standard Hermitage (although there is nothing standard about it). The Cuvee Cathelin sees more oak than its sibling, enjoys 50-75 years of aging potential, and boasts over-the-top blackberry and cassis fruit notes intertwined with pen ink, spring flower, graphite and subtle vanillin characteristics. It is a brilliant wine that almost defies description given its ethereal complexity allied to massive weight, power and richness. Yet, it never comes across as heavy or overly-extracted. Forget this for another decade and you and your progeny can enjoy it over the following 50-75 years.

The Wine Cellar Insider (100)

This is thrilling to swirl, sniff and sip from the moment the wine hits your glass. Elegant, concentrated, long, rich and refined, the smoky, earthy, rock-strewn fruits grace your palate and linger for at least 60 seconds! Prices for this gem have really shot up over the past few years. If you are lucky enough to have a bottle or two, or you have the disposable income, this is a heart-stopping tasting experience.

Wine Advocate (100)

Chave's 2003 Hermitage, like the most successful Burgundies from that anomalous vintage, somehow retains a sense of mineral freshness that balances this wine's remarkable concentration and massive fruit. Tasted at the domaine, it's even floral and perfumed on the nose, an incredible feat when faced with that summer's implacable heat. Full-bodied, massively rich and decadently creamy in texture, it delivers waves of mixed red and black fruits that avoid any overtly raisiny character, finishing vibrant, peppery and long. Jean-Louis Chave seems increasingly confident at the helm of this legendary domaine. We spent a bit of time discussing the 2018 vintage, which he rates highly. "The wines are not really jammy. They're almost as ripe as 2003, but for some reason the grapes weren't raisiny," he said. "The vines never really stopped. In mid-August, we had 40 millimeters of rain—perfect timing. And at the end of August another little rain." Hermitage shines this year. "In Hermitage, you can push things to the limit and still be OK," Chave said. "Even when it's extreme, the grands terroirs are still the grands terroirs." Looking at recent vintages, Chave summarized the similarities as follows: 2015 he compares to 1990; 2016 to 2010; 2017 to 2000. As for 2018, said Chave, "It wouldn't be right to compare 2018 and 2003. The ripeness is extreme, but at the end, they're very different wines." Hermitage aside, Chave has spent much of his time in recent years working on his vineyards in Saint Joseph. He said he thinks of Saint Joseph as a wine for bistros rather than haute cuisine, but Chave's Saint Joseph's have quickly progressed beyond that in terms of quality (and, unfortunately, price).