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The Giacomo Conterno 2014 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is made with 100% fruit from the Francia cru, which is not the case for the 2015 vintage (that sees 22% Arione in the blend) or likely future vintages. In a sense, this 100-point wine represents a milestone or a chapter finale in the long and exciting trajectory of Italy's collected and revered Monfortino. I've had the great fortune of tasting this wine from barrel over the course of four years and twice again this summer during my visits to the Conterno estates (in Gattinara and in Monforte d'Alba).
Drinking Window: 2027 - 2060
Reviewer Name: Monica Larner
Review Date: 1st December 2021
The 2014 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is an epic wine, just as it always has been. Readers will surely be tempted to taste the 2014 now, but I would try to resist that, if possible. Usually, I recommend tasting young Monfortino upon release, when it has only been bottled for a few months and before it shuts down. Roberto Conterno gave the 2014 six years in cask (instead of seven), so the 2014 was bottled a year earlier, in the summer of 2019, which means it is now very much in the closed-down zone. Time in the glass brings out its inner sweetness and sensuality, but the 2014 is nowhere near as expressive today as it was from cask, or earlier this year when it was one of the highlights of a magnum vertical all the way back to 1970. The 2014 Monfortino is an epic, monumental wine in every way. Opening a bottle now, though, is not likely to be especially rewarding.
Drinking Window: 2026 - 2065
Reviewer Name: Antonio Galloni
Review Date: 15th October 2020
Serralunga d’Alba. Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. Cool and concentrated with a fine minerally note of liquorice dust. Huge depth. Still tightly wound, succulent fruit with bags of coating tannins and nervy, long acidity. Perfumed, complex and long and even a little more refined than 2013. Its length can only be measured in light years.
Drinking Window: 2020 - 2038
Reviewer Name: Walter Speller
Review Date: 14th November 2019
