France - All White Wines
France is revered for its exceptional white wines, which showcase the country's rich winemaking heritage, diverse terroirs, and unwavering commitment to quality. Today, let us embark on a journey through the best white wines that France has to offer, exploring renowned vineyards and the regions that give birth to these extraordinary expressions.
In Burgundy, the appellations of Chablis, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet stand tall as the epitome of excellence in white wine production. Wineries such as Domaine Raveneau, Domaine Dauvissat, and Domaine Leflaive craft mesmerizing Chardonnays that capture the essence of the region's unique Kimmeridgian limestone soils. These wines exhibit precision, purity, and a remarkable balance of mineral notes, citrus flavors, and vibrant acidity.
Moving to the Loire Valley, the vineyards of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are celebrated for their exceptional Sauvignon Blancs. Domaine Vacheron, Domaine Didier Dagueneau, and Domaine Pascal Jolivet create expressive and terroir-driven wines that showcase the region's distinct flinty minerality, zesty citrus, and herbaceous undertones.
Further northeast in France, in the region of Alsace, vineyards such as Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Domaine Trimbach, and Domaine Weinbach produce stunning white wines from varietals like Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris. These wines display remarkable depth, aromatic complexity, and a balance between sweetness and acidity, reflecting the region's unique microclimates and granite-rich soils.
In Bordeaux, the region of Graves is renowned for its white wines, particularly those crafted from the classic grape varieties of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Château Haut-Brion, Château Pape Clément, and Domaine de Chevalier are esteemed vineyards that produce rich and age-worthy white Bordeaux wines. These wines exhibit a beautiful interplay of tropical fruit flavors, vibrant acidity, and a touch of toasty oak.
Finally, in the Rhône Valley, the appellation of Condrieu shines as a beacon of excellence in Viognier production. Renowned vineyards such as Domaine Georges Vernay and Domaine Yves Cuilleron create remarkable Viognier wines that seduce the senses with their exotic aromas of apricot, peach, and delicate floral notes. These wines showcase richness, elegance, and a silky texture that lingers on the palate.
France - All White Wines
| Product Name | Region | Qty | Score | Price | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 90+ (VN) |
Inc. TAX
€3,986.96 |
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Vinous (90+)Superripe aromas of dried fruits complicated by white flowers and a peppery nuance. Then distinctly less fleshy and generous in the middle palate than the Petits Charrons, with the peppery quality carrying through in the mouth. Markedly different in texture and style, and in need of patience. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - |
Inc. TAX
€8,307.73 |
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Discover the delightful complexity of the Auvenay Auxey Duresses La Macabre 2005, meticulously cultivated in the illustrious vineyards of Burgundy, France. This artisanal wine is an exemplary creation of oenophile Lalou Bize-Leroy, holder of prestigious Domaine Leroy. The 2005 vintage has been classically vinified, imbued with an expressive character that reflects the intricacies of a sublime Pinot Noir grape. Aged in 100% new French oak, the Auxey Duresses La Macabre 2005 displays an impressive balance of deep fruit richness and bright, underlying acidity. The nose reveals enticing notes of black cherries, cloves, and cocoa, dramatising into a palate of candid red fruits and mineral undertones. This hauntingly beautiful wine is the epitome of Auvenay's passion for perfection and obsessive attention to detail. Seize the opportunity to savour the Auvenay Auxey Duresses La Macabre 2005, a wine that archetypally embodies its famously expressive terroir. |
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Burgundy | 2 | - |
Inc. TAX
€23,423.20 |
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Presenting the exquisite Auvenay Auxey Duresses La Macabre 2005, a grand presentation from the celebrated producer, Domaine d'Auvenay. This distinguished French Chardonnay hails from the premier, limestone-rich terroirs of Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Crafted under the masterful stewardship of Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy, the wine expresses her trademark meticulous attention to biodynamic principles and absolute respect for nature. This 2005 vintage showcases an intriguing balance of finesse and complexity. On the nose, it offers rich, aromatic notes of honeyed fruit and subtle mineral undertones. Its vibrant palate enhances with intricate layers of orchard fruit, primal earthiness, and a whisper of oak. Thanks to its exceptional ageing potential, the Auvenay Auxey Duresses La Macabre 2005 effortlessly evolves over time, revealing greater depths of character and nuance. For enthusiasts and collectors alike, this is an incredible testament to the heights of French winemaking. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - |
Inc. TAX
€8,374.48 |
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Experience the exceptional quality and allure of the auvenay Auxey Duresses Les Clous Blanc 2005. This esteemed Chardonnay is meticulously crafted in the notable Burgundy region of France and produced by Domaine d'Auvenay, an eminent biodynamic winery owned by Lalou Bize-Leroy - who is also co-owner of the renowned Domaine Leroy. This wine masterfully mingles ripened fruit complexity with a balanced minerality that is testament to its terrain. The Auvenay Auxey Duresses Les Clous Blanc 2005 reveals a captivating bouquet of white flowers, fresh almonds, and a subtle hint of toasted bread. Its harmoniously complex palate evokes flavours of soft stone fruit with compelling layers of spicy oak. Its character is further enhanced by the maturation in new oak barrels. A wine that elegantly marries depth and elegance for an unforgettable tasting experience that truly embodies the spirit of fine French winemaking. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91 (VN) |
Inc. TAX
€11,307.73 |
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Vinous (91)Sexy aromas of citrus fruits, oatmeal and smoke. Sweetly spicy in the mouth, with a ripe peach flavor and a seductively supple texture. Very good acidity frames the fruit and extends the finish. (Two other Meursaults were considerably more difficult to taste: A village wine, simply labeled Meursault, was plagued by mercaptan, and despite offering sexy hazelnut and oatmeal flavors and harmonious acidity was impossible to judge. And a Meursault Les Narvaux showed a resiny aroma of Calvados. Madame Bize said the wine was simply too young, and I suppose it's possible that it was going through an oxidative stage.) |
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Rhone | 1 | 94-97 (VN) |
Inc. TAX
€533.05 |
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Vinous - Josh Raynolds (94-97)Light gold. Intense, explosively perfumed and captivating, with a fabulous display of fruit, herb, mineral and spice aromas. A replay of the outstanding 2004, showing a leesy, pungent personality that suggests a great grand cru white Burgundy. The sheer flavor extract is remarkable; flavors include fresh and dried peach, pear, orange rind and honey, and the texture is sappy and tactile. There are only 150 cases of this for the world. |
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Rhone | 1 | 96 (WA) |
Inc. TAX
€1,670.87 |
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Wine Advocate (96)More over the top and decadent than the Cuvee de l’Orée, the 2005 Ermitage le Meal Blanc has overflowing notes of celery seed, sautéed peaches, honeycomb and underlying minerality that literally come soaring from the glass. Full-bodied, thick, unctuous and hedonistic to the max, it lacks a touch of the precision found in the Cuvee de l’Orée, yet makes up for it in sheer hedonistic pleasure and exuberance. It has the concentration to continue drinking nicely for another two decades or more. |
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Bordeaux | 3 | 98.0 |
Inc. TAX
€1,121.17 |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 98.0 |
Inc. TAX
€773.58 |
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Rhone | 1 | 95 (WA) |
Inc. TAX
€1,934.77 |
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Wine Advocate (95)A vintage that Avril is selling to restaurants as he thinks it's drinking beautifully (and I agree), the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc has superb freshness and minerality in its honeyed, hazelnut, licorice and stone fruit-driven bouquet. Layered, pure and balanced, with both freshness and richness, it will continue to evolve nicely, but there's no need to hold off. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - |
Inc. TAX
€7,904.87 |
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Rhone | 1 | - |
Inc. TAX
€974.86 |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100.0 |
Inc. TAX
€723.73 |
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Chateau Yquem is the highest and finest winemaker in the Sauternes appellation. The 2005 is pleasingly rich and luxuriously textured. It has a impressively defined bouquet and a well balanced palate of honeyed apricot, pepper and nectarine ending on spicy kick.
More Info
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100.0 |
Inc. TAX
€3,136.38 |
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Burgundy | 1 | - |
Inc. TAX
€1,478.84 |
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Burgundy | 1 | - |
Inc. TAX
€3,728.77 |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100 (WS) |
Inc. TAX
€11,540.84 |
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Wine Spectator (100)Vibrant and exciting, with intense aromas of light toasty oak, pineapple skin, lemon, gooseberry, acacia honey and peach tart. Flowers even. Full-bodied, layered and refined, with tropical fruit, honey, vanilla, cream and light toasty oak. The length is amazing. White wine doesn't get better than this. Needs a little time, but hard to leave it alone. Best after 2014. 665 cases made. -JS |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 96 (WA) |
Inc. TAX
€3,980.77 |
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Wine Advocate (96)Tasted blind at the 10-Year On Tasting in Sauternes. The 2005 L’Extravagant de Doisy Daëne has 3.9grams of acidity, 192 grams per liter of residual sugar and 12.3% alcohol. The 2005 has a powerful bouquet with honey, mandarin, a touch of petrol and yellow flowers on the nose, later developing that seductive marzipan scent that draws you in like a tractor beam. The palate is unctuous in the mouth that is probably going to be sugar-coated for the next year or two, but there are some gorgeous peach and citrus notes that flourish on the finish. It is more a force of nature than a wine! |
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Burgundy | 1 | 98 (WSM) |
Inc. TAX
€7,748.93 |
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Wine & Spirit Magazine (98)This is a great vintage from Domaine Leflaive, which owns 4.92 acres in Chevalier, including a significant portion of vines dating to the 1950s. This 2005 is marked by the concentration of a smaller-than-average harvest (cool weather during flowering caused poor or uneven fruit set). The season was dry, the grapes harvested on the 20th and 21st of September, fruit days on the biodynamic calendar, following several days of north winds and sunshine that peaked the fruit ripeness. The beneficent conditions and the care with which estate manager Pierre Morey and Anne-Claude Leflaive farm their vines resulted in this brilliant Chevalier. It shows an aristocratic finesse from the moment the bottle is opened. The wine's power and dynamic intensity make it hard to resist, as if it went beyond perfect balance and form to sustain the energy of the fruit in the glass. The taste is little more than a caress that lasts for minutes, bringing idealized images of Burgundy to mind: the sun on a hillside of yellow herbs growing between the vines, the roots working their way through minerals in the soil, a cool limestone cellar where wine rests in oak. The elegance that comes from Chevalier's high point on the hill separates it from Domaine Leflaive's more broad-shouldered Bâtard, the distinction amplified in this vintage. Both are wines to enjoy for decades to come. |
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Loire | 1 | - |
Inc. TAX
€686.63 |
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Bordeaux | 16 | 95 (WS) |
Inc. TAX
€1,462.38 |
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Wine Spectator (95)Solid core of fruit in this wine with excellent structure that reminds me of red wine. Tight and well-knit. Goes on for a long, long time. 60 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 40 percent Sémillon. Score range: 95-100 |
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Rhone | 1 | 92 (WS) |
Inc. TAX
€794.87 |
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Wine Spectator (92)Has a mix of candied citrus peel, floral, lanolin and fig flavors, with a nicely firm finish. Long and tight, with the citrus and floral notes holding the fruit at bay for now. Needs time to unwind. Best from 2008 through 2013. 25 cases imported. -JM |
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Burgundy | 4 | - |
Inc. TAX
€3,963.73 |
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Burgundy | 3 | 89+ (VN) |
Inc. TAX
€7,166.77 |
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Vinous (89+)Good pale, green-tinged color. Stony, pure and subdued on the nose. Tightly wound today, with the citrus, mineral and spicy oak flavors coming across as dry, even austere. Strong acids and minerality give the finish a faint hard edge and make this tricky to taste today. Right now the fruit is in the deep background. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92 (VN) |
Inc. TAX
€11,330.77 |
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Vinous (92)Bright gold-tinged yellow. Aromas of citrus fruits, minerals and spices, with deeper notes of honey, truffle and oatmeal emerging with air. A rich, powerful, uncompromisingly dry Chablis with more energy and cut than the 2006. This was austere from the start and there's nothing easy about it even today. But the finish impresses for its tactile texture and wet-stone minerality, and there's fruit lurking, so I would check back in on this very broad wine in another couple of years. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 95-100 (WS) |
Inc. TAX
€1,005.97 |
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Wine Spectator (95-100)Loads of spicy honey and apple character. Full-bodied, medium-sweet, with a solid core of fruit and lots of botrytis character. Very racy. Not the 2001 but superb. Score range: 95-100 |
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Alsace | 1 | 93 (WA) |
Inc. TAX
€868.38 |
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Wine Advocate (93)The 2005 Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile follows the lead of the “reserve” bottling in offering palpable extract yet elegance and refinement. Peach, apricot, apricot kernel, lime, and pungent floral notes in the nose lead to a juicy mouthful of citrus and pit fruit with further invigoration added by accents of salt, huckleberry and toasted pumpkin seeds. Blazingly bright in its citricity and palate-staining in its fruit, nut, and mineral intensity, this displays an amazing tiny-berry concentration and utmost clarity when one considers its having been rained on early in October – tribute to an impeccable viticultural regime as well as the breezy location (on the Osterberg) of these vines. It won’t be released until 2010, by which time it can be expected to have “shut down” and re-opened, as well as – I hasten to add – to promise further richness and complexity over the following 12-15 years. Chalk dust, sea breeze and lime in the nose of their 2004 Riesling Reserve set the rather austere tone for this densely-concentrated wine. A hint of muskiness signals an exotic aspect that runs right though a minerally-intense finish that really shows the wines ripe but ultra-bright acidity. This (like some of the other 2004s) appears to already be in the process of shutting down a bit, leading me to wonder whether it might hit the market while in a vinous trough. |
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| Product Name | Region | Qty | Score | Price | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
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Burgundy | 1 | 90+ (VN) |
In Bond
€3,315.00 |
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Vinous (90+)Superripe aromas of dried fruits complicated by white flowers and a peppery nuance. Then distinctly less fleshy and generous in the middle palate than the Petits Charrons, with the peppery quality carrying through in the mouth. Markedly different in texture and style, and in need of patience. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - |
In Bond
€6,920.00 |
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Discover the delightful complexity of the Auvenay Auxey Duresses La Macabre 2005, meticulously cultivated in the illustrious vineyards of Burgundy, France. This artisanal wine is an exemplary creation of oenophile Lalou Bize-Leroy, holder of prestigious Domaine Leroy. The 2005 vintage has been classically vinified, imbued with an expressive character that reflects the intricacies of a sublime Pinot Noir grape. Aged in 100% new French oak, the Auxey Duresses La Macabre 2005 displays an impressive balance of deep fruit richness and bright, underlying acidity. The nose reveals enticing notes of black cherries, cloves, and cocoa, dramatising into a palate of candid red fruits and mineral undertones. This hauntingly beautiful wine is the epitome of Auvenay's passion for perfection and obsessive attention to detail. Seize the opportunity to savour the Auvenay Auxey Duresses La Macabre 2005, a wine that archetypally embodies its famously expressive terroir. |
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Burgundy | 2 | - |
In Bond
€19,510.00 |
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Presenting the exquisite Auvenay Auxey Duresses La Macabre 2005, a grand presentation from the celebrated producer, Domaine d'Auvenay. This distinguished French Chardonnay hails from the premier, limestone-rich terroirs of Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Crafted under the masterful stewardship of Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy, the wine expresses her trademark meticulous attention to biodynamic principles and absolute respect for nature. This 2005 vintage showcases an intriguing balance of finesse and complexity. On the nose, it offers rich, aromatic notes of honeyed fruit and subtle mineral undertones. Its vibrant palate enhances with intricate layers of orchard fruit, primal earthiness, and a whisper of oak. Thanks to its exceptional ageing potential, the Auvenay Auxey Duresses La Macabre 2005 effortlessly evolves over time, revealing greater depths of character and nuance. For enthusiasts and collectors alike, this is an incredible testament to the heights of French winemaking. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - |
In Bond
€6,975.00 |
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Experience the exceptional quality and allure of the auvenay Auxey Duresses Les Clous Blanc 2005. This esteemed Chardonnay is meticulously crafted in the notable Burgundy region of France and produced by Domaine d'Auvenay, an eminent biodynamic winery owned by Lalou Bize-Leroy - who is also co-owner of the renowned Domaine Leroy. This wine masterfully mingles ripened fruit complexity with a balanced minerality that is testament to its terrain. The Auvenay Auxey Duresses Les Clous Blanc 2005 reveals a captivating bouquet of white flowers, fresh almonds, and a subtle hint of toasted bread. Its harmoniously complex palate evokes flavours of soft stone fruit with compelling layers of spicy oak. Its character is further enhanced by the maturation in new oak barrels. A wine that elegantly marries depth and elegance for an unforgettable tasting experience that truly embodies the spirit of fine French winemaking. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91 (VN) |
In Bond
€9,420.00 |
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Vinous (91)Sexy aromas of citrus fruits, oatmeal and smoke. Sweetly spicy in the mouth, with a ripe peach flavor and a seductively supple texture. Very good acidity frames the fruit and extends the finish. (Two other Meursaults were considerably more difficult to taste: A village wine, simply labeled Meursault, was plagued by mercaptan, and despite offering sexy hazelnut and oatmeal flavors and harmonious acidity was impossible to judge. And a Meursault Les Narvaux showed a resiny aroma of Calvados. Madame Bize said the wine was simply too young, and I suppose it's possible that it was going through an oxidative stage.) |
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Rhone | 1 | 94-97 (VN) |
In Bond
€438.00 |
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Vinous - Josh Raynolds (94-97)Light gold. Intense, explosively perfumed and captivating, with a fabulous display of fruit, herb, mineral and spice aromas. A replay of the outstanding 2004, showing a leesy, pungent personality that suggests a great grand cru white Burgundy. The sheer flavor extract is remarkable; flavors include fresh and dried peach, pear, orange rind and honey, and the texture is sappy and tactile. There are only 150 cases of this for the world. |
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Rhone | 1 | 96 (WA) |
In Bond
€1,370.00 |
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Wine Advocate (96)More over the top and decadent than the Cuvee de l’Orée, the 2005 Ermitage le Meal Blanc has overflowing notes of celery seed, sautéed peaches, honeycomb and underlying minerality that literally come soaring from the glass. Full-bodied, thick, unctuous and hedonistic to the max, it lacks a touch of the precision found in the Cuvee de l’Orée, yet makes up for it in sheer hedonistic pleasure and exuberance. It has the concentration to continue drinking nicely for another two decades or more. |
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Bordeaux | 3 | 98.0 |
In Bond
€897.00 |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 98.0 |
In Bond
€626.00 |
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Rhone | 1 | 95 (WA) |
In Bond
€1,575.00 |
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Wine Advocate (95)A vintage that Avril is selling to restaurants as he thinks it's drinking beautifully (and I agree), the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc has superb freshness and minerality in its honeyed, hazelnut, licorice and stone fruit-driven bouquet. Layered, pure and balanced, with both freshness and richness, it will continue to evolve nicely, but there's no need to hold off. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - |
In Bond
€6,565.00 |
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Rhone | 1 | - |
In Bond
€768.00 |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100.0 |
In Bond
€600.00 |
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Chateau Yquem is the highest and finest winemaker in the Sauternes appellation. The 2005 is pleasingly rich and luxuriously textured. It has a impressively defined bouquet and a well balanced palate of honeyed apricot, pepper and nectarine ending on spicy kick.
More Info
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100.0 |
In Bond
€2,595.00 |
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Burgundy | 1 | - |
In Bond
€1,195.00 |
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Burgundy | 1 | - |
In Bond
€3,070.00 |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100 (WS) |
In Bond
€9,580.00 |
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Wine Spectator (100)Vibrant and exciting, with intense aromas of light toasty oak, pineapple skin, lemon, gooseberry, acacia honey and peach tart. Flowers even. Full-bodied, layered and refined, with tropical fruit, honey, vanilla, cream and light toasty oak. The length is amazing. White wine doesn't get better than this. Needs a little time, but hard to leave it alone. Best after 2014. 665 cases made. -JS |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 96 (WA) |
In Bond
€3,280.00 |
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Wine Advocate (96)Tasted blind at the 10-Year On Tasting in Sauternes. The 2005 L’Extravagant de Doisy Daëne has 3.9grams of acidity, 192 grams per liter of residual sugar and 12.3% alcohol. The 2005 has a powerful bouquet with honey, mandarin, a touch of petrol and yellow flowers on the nose, later developing that seductive marzipan scent that draws you in like a tractor beam. The palate is unctuous in the mouth that is probably going to be sugar-coated for the next year or two, but there are some gorgeous peach and citrus notes that flourish on the finish. It is more a force of nature than a wine! |
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Burgundy | 1 | 98 (WSM) |
In Bond
€6,445.00 |
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Wine & Spirit Magazine (98)This is a great vintage from Domaine Leflaive, which owns 4.92 acres in Chevalier, including a significant portion of vines dating to the 1950s. This 2005 is marked by the concentration of a smaller-than-average harvest (cool weather during flowering caused poor or uneven fruit set). The season was dry, the grapes harvested on the 20th and 21st of September, fruit days on the biodynamic calendar, following several days of north winds and sunshine that peaked the fruit ripeness. The beneficent conditions and the care with which estate manager Pierre Morey and Anne-Claude Leflaive farm their vines resulted in this brilliant Chevalier. It shows an aristocratic finesse from the moment the bottle is opened. The wine's power and dynamic intensity make it hard to resist, as if it went beyond perfect balance and form to sustain the energy of the fruit in the glass. The taste is little more than a caress that lasts for minutes, bringing idealized images of Burgundy to mind: the sun on a hillside of yellow herbs growing between the vines, the roots working their way through minerals in the soil, a cool limestone cellar where wine rests in oak. The elegance that comes from Chevalier's high point on the hill separates it from Domaine Leflaive's more broad-shouldered Bâtard, the distinction amplified in this vintage. Both are wines to enjoy for decades to come. |
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Loire | 1 | - |
In Bond
€561.00 |
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Bordeaux | 16 | 95 (WS) |
In Bond
€1,200.00 |
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Wine Spectator (95)Solid core of fruit in this wine with excellent structure that reminds me of red wine. Tight and well-knit. Goes on for a long, long time. 60 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 40 percent Sémillon. Score range: 95-100 |
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Rhone | 1 | 92 (WS) |
In Bond
€640.00 |
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Wine Spectator (92)Has a mix of candied citrus peel, floral, lanolin and fig flavors, with a nicely firm finish. Long and tight, with the citrus and floral notes holding the fruit at bay for now. Needs time to unwind. Best from 2008 through 2013. 25 cases imported. -JM |
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Burgundy | 4 | - |
In Bond
€3,300.00 |
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Burgundy | 3 | 89+ (VN) |
In Bond
€5,935.00 |
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Vinous (89+)Good pale, green-tinged color. Stony, pure and subdued on the nose. Tightly wound today, with the citrus, mineral and spicy oak flavors coming across as dry, even austere. Strong acids and minerality give the finish a faint hard edge and make this tricky to taste today. Right now the fruit is in the deep background. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92 (VN) |
In Bond
€9,405.00 |
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Vinous (92)Bright gold-tinged yellow. Aromas of citrus fruits, minerals and spices, with deeper notes of honey, truffle and oatmeal emerging with air. A rich, powerful, uncompromisingly dry Chablis with more energy and cut than the 2006. This was austere from the start and there's nothing easy about it even today. But the finish impresses for its tactile texture and wet-stone minerality, and there's fruit lurking, so I would check back in on this very broad wine in another couple of years. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 95-100 (WS) |
In Bond
€801.00 |
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Wine Spectator (95-100)Loads of spicy honey and apple character. Full-bodied, medium-sweet, with a solid core of fruit and lots of botrytis character. Very racy. Not the 2001 but superb. Score range: 95-100 |
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Alsace | 1 | 93 (WA) |
In Bond
€705.00 |
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Wine Advocate (93)The 2005 Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile follows the lead of the “reserve” bottling in offering palpable extract yet elegance and refinement. Peach, apricot, apricot kernel, lime, and pungent floral notes in the nose lead to a juicy mouthful of citrus and pit fruit with further invigoration added by accents of salt, huckleberry and toasted pumpkin seeds. Blazingly bright in its citricity and palate-staining in its fruit, nut, and mineral intensity, this displays an amazing tiny-berry concentration and utmost clarity when one considers its having been rained on early in October – tribute to an impeccable viticultural regime as well as the breezy location (on the Osterberg) of these vines. It won’t be released until 2010, by which time it can be expected to have “shut down” and re-opened, as well as – I hasten to add – to promise further richness and complexity over the following 12-15 years. Chalk dust, sea breeze and lime in the nose of their 2004 Riesling Reserve set the rather austere tone for this densely-concentrated wine. A hint of muskiness signals an exotic aspect that runs right though a minerally-intense finish that really shows the wines ripe but ultra-bright acidity. This (like some of the other 2004s) appears to already be in the process of shutting down a bit, leading me to wonder whether it might hit the market while in a vinous trough. |
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