James Suckling (94-95)

This is classically structured with a wonderful finish of extremely polished tannins and an ultra long finish. So much blackcurrant, spice and cedar. Seamless. 70% cabernet sauvignon and 26% merlot, the rest cabernet franc and petit verdot.

A family-run Champagne house with a history dating back to 1878, many of the grapes grown by Maison Bénard Pitois are bought by Bollinger but they keep selected parcels from their 1er Cru vines in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ to create this excellent value Brut Réserve and their other releases.

 

Made from a blend of 60% Pinot and 40% Chardonnay, it was aged for 30 months on lees, double the usual Non-Vintage ageing period of 15 months, and elegant brioche and almond complexity really shines through. It was also partly aged in wooden barrels, which has given it the richness..

James Suckling (99)

What intense aromas of cherries and raspberries! Then it turns to flowers and orange peel. Roses, too. This is really full and powerful with layers of ripe tannins. It’s super fine-tannined, but shows wonderful length and intensity. A great expression of Lamole in Chianti Classico with ancient vines. Some older than 100 years. Best ever? Superb. Try after 2024 and onwards.

James Suckling (93)

Cinnamon and dried nutmeg add to the experience of bread dough and rose petals. Flavorful on the medium-bodied palate and finely poised with bright acidity. Medium-long on the finish. Drink now.

Matthew Jukes (20+)

08NF was made from 83% Grands Crus and 17% de Premiers Crus: 60% Pinot Noir from the Premiers and Grands Crus of the Montagne de Reims and the Grande Vallée de la Marne (Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Aÿ, Ambonnay, Bouzy, Verzenay et Verzy); 40% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs (Mesnil, Chouilly, Cramant, Vertus); 17% of the wines were vinified in oak barrels, and it was aged on its lees for 150 months; The dosage is 2.9 g/l, and it was disgorged in January 2022. This super-deep wine dwells low in the glass with weight and depth of delivery that is completely unhurried. Vinous, powerful and with a full spectrum of fruit and patisserie, it is remarkable just how little citrus and herb there is on the front end of this staggeringly impressive wine. It is more layered and exotic than any current release Champagne I can think of, and then when it seems as though the scene is set, everything changes instantly. The palate drops about three gears revealing arresting zestiness and tanginess that completely engulfs the senses. I learned that this cuvée’s release was delayed by nearly two years because the back end was so twitchy, nervy and excitable. As it turns out, the Billecart gurus made the right call here – this is an electrifying wine, and the finish shows that the potential here is incredible. I am lucky enough to have tasted the 1959 and the 1961 Billecart-Salmon vintage wines, among others, and the DNA and detail in this 2008 are near-identical. While the top half of this wine is showy, flamboyant and seductive, the lower half is firm, chiselled, rigid and breath-taking.

Tyson Stelzer (97)

PN AYC18 is a showpiece for the expansive dimensions, intoxicating allure and purity of Aÿ pinot noir; a wonderfully characterful blanc de noirs that celebrates the sumptuous fruit generosity of 2018 and the purity and precision of this fabled cru. With the generous tones of a full straw hue and a blush tint, it ripples with grand fruit depth of red cherries and perfectly ripe plums. The magnificent depth of complexity that is Bollinger rumbles in deep reserves, reminiscent of fruit mince spice and dried nectarines. I love that it is so emphatically Aÿ, so intrinsically Bollinger, and yet all transposed with the transparency and delicious fruit generosity that is 2018. It holds fantastic, succulent allure on a very long finish; the ripeness of 2018 translating in supple, silky fruit generosity, yet in no way heavy or broad, beautifully energised by the fine chalk salinity and pure acid freshness that make Aÿ such a beloved place.

Decanter (93)

The nose is remarkably fine and complex, expressing scents of orchard fruit, white peach, apricot, and lemon with a touch of verbena. On the palate, the immediate impression is of a certain unctuosity providing great charm, and even the structure has round contours, but it seems to tighten on the chalky, airborne finish. The salinity that marked the previous two iterations of this PN series seems less present, with this one having more notes of pastry and hazelnuts as well as some zesty citrus, but airing adds an iodine-like tang. This is a Champagne that should pair well with fresh fish and shellfish dishes. 100% Pinot Noir. Dosage: 4 g/L. Disgorgement: January 2022.

Richard Juhlin (95)

The presentation is brilliant and is reminiscent of the house's legendary blanc de noirs Bollinger ’Vieilles Vignes Françaises’….. A Verzenay blanc de noirs with sprinkles of Aÿ, Bouzy and Tauxières, where 50% of the wine comes from 2015 with reserve wines on magnum dating from 2009. Verzenay and Aÿ are, as you know, the dominant villages in Bollinger's vintage wines. Verzenay is often the chalky and mineral-rich backbone of Bollinger's vintage build-up. The wine is vibrantly fresh, mineral-driven and extremely pure. There is a clarity and sharpness that is outstanding, where gunpowder notes and aroma of grilled meat develop as the glass warms up slightly. I love this wine as it is a perfect creation from one of the most important villages in the whole of Champagne dominated by the aforementioned minerality, but also with notes of violet and red grapefruit so typical of Verzenay of the highest class. On aeration the scent develops more and more notes of pears, figs and freshly baked baguette and the taste develops towards peach and apricot jam. Personally, though, I will wait as long as I can before opening my own bottles to get the increasing depth of caramel and grilled hazelnut flavour that only time in the cellar can provide.

Decanter (95)

Produced exclusively from vineyards owned by Bollinger, this takes advantage of the dynamic equilibrium between the structured, robust Pinot Noir grape and a terroir that is late-ripening. Picking began on 25 September and delivered a wine with plenty of concentration and impressive freshness and balance, with expressive green apple fruit accented with notes of toast and smoke and a creamy, supple, and open texture. Dosed at 6 g/l. Disgorged in November 2020.

Jeb Dunnuck (99)

The 2020 Château Calon Ségur is pure gold and another masterpiece from this estate. Harvested all in September and pulled from their 48 hectares of vines, the blend is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot that spent 20 months all in new French oak, and it hit 13.2% natural alcohol. My notes started and ended with "wow," and this riveting Saint-Estèphe offers a heavenly bouquet of red and black currants, truffly earth, iron, espresso, and tobacco leaf. With incredible purity of fruit, full-bodied richness, and ultra-fine tannins, it's a deep, pure, layered 2020 that deserves at least 7-8 years of bottle age and will cruise for 40-50 years in cold cellars. Hats off to the team at Calon Ségur.

James Suckling (96-97)

This is very classically structured with a palate that starts off slowly. Full-bodied and chewy with a soft, creamy texture and a long finish. Savory. A touch austere. 52% cabernet sauvignon, 42% merlot and 3% cabernet franc, the rest petit verdot.

Matthew Jukes (18+)

Because this trio of wines runs in a neat sequence, I made one consecutive note to cover all three vintages – a direct comparative tasting note, if you will. 2016 is my preferred wine – it is the grandest, and it has the most potential. It is one of the finest value, elite reds I have tasted in a very long time. The 2017 is more refined, the most forward, most restaurant friendly and most open. It is lighter, more herbal, and it will get you in the mood while the others have a chance to mellow. I will hold back on any more notes on this wine because it is my MoneyWeek wine of the week this Friday! Finally, the 2018, which is a beauty. More flamboyant, more plush and sensual, and it is not dissimilar to the 2016 in fruit expression, but it is not quite as powerful or as impactful. Either way, you need all three in your collection because if you like each of these wines for their respective character traits, I can imagine you will follow this label for the rest of your days.

Wine Advocate (93+)

Composed of 38% Grenache, 36% Syrah, 10% Cinsault, 9% Carignan and 7% Pinotage, the 2020 Elpidios comes from 12 different vineyards and was made from 50% whole-cluster fruit. On the nose, the wine offers soft herbal hints of mint and menthol with a delightful undertone of wild brush before swaying with a red-fruited nature and delicate dusty essence. Medium-bodied and with 13.5% alcohol, the wine is juicy and mineral on the palate and offers delightful herbal essences across the structured mid-palate. The wine glides to a delightfully minty finish that will remain food-friendly for over a decade. Give it at least one more year in the bottle, and decant for at least 30 minutes before enjoying.

James Suckling (99)

This shows incredible depth of fruit with strawberry, cherry and phenolics. Full-bodied and layered with an incredible, three-dimensional element to the wine. This is so transparent and dynamic with dark fruit, yet it remains vivid and bright. Refined and precise, it goes on and on. Really savory, fresh and incredibly pinot-noir-like. What a wine. 13 years of maturation in the bottle. So drinkable now, but it will age for many years ahead.

Jancis Robinson (18)

Charmes and Mazoyères. Barrel sample – taken from a new barrel (70% new for the grands crus though they are starting to reduce this). Sweet oaky spice adding to the fruit spice. Thick texture from the oak but under that is a well of lovely fruit. Chewy texture. Not notably fresh but balanced and likely to ‘stretch’ and freshen with longer élevage. A powerhouse.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (97)

The 2020 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is a heady, almost exotic wine. Harvest took place on October 17, very late for the year. Hard candy, kirsch, menthol, dried rose petal, mint and blood orange infuse the 2020 with striking depth. The tannins, often incisive here, are remarkably polished. A wine of beautiful nuance and persistence, the 2020 Gavarini is not the most obvious wine in this range, but it could very well be the classiest. Don't miss it!

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (96)

The 2020 Barolo Ginestra Casa Matè is gorgeous. Aromatically captivating and nuanced, the 2020 impresses right out of the gate. All the classic Ginestra signatures are present. Today the tannins are pretty imposing in the positive sense, as they are present, but also impeccably balanced within the wine's frame. This is impressive stuff. The substantial, balsamic-infused Ginestra finish is captivating.

Experience the epitome of Beauijolais grandeur with the Jules Desjourneys Fleurie Chapelle Bois 2020. Produced in the spellbinding vineyards of Fleurie, in the heart of the French Beaujolais region, this exquisite wine is the brainchild of meticulous viticulturist, Fabien Duperray. Employing organic practices in the lush hillside vineyards, Duperray meticulously nurtures Gamay grapes, compromising nothing in the pursuit of impeccable quality. This exquisite Fleurie is aged in Burgundian barrels adding to its complex structure and enhancing the purity of the Gamay fruit.

The Jules Desjourneys Fleurie Chapelle Bois 2020 titillates with a profound bouquet of crushed black cherries, wild berries and spices, underpinned by subtle earthy undertones. On the palate, it boasts a silky yet generous body with a vibrant acidity and mineral-infused finish that elegantly lingers. This remarkable blend showcases the distinctive charm and meticulous craft that Jules Desjourneys wines are renowned for. Truly a quintessential Beaujolais indulgence.

Wine Advocate (96+)

Based on the 2013 vintage and complemented by some 40% reserve wines dating back to 2000, Krug's newly released NV Grande Cuvée 169ème Édition is showing very nicely, unfurling in the glass with notes of citrus oil, buttered toast, dried apricot, warm biscuits and marmalade. Medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive, it's a tauter, more chiseled rendition of Grande Cuvée by comparison with the richer, more textural and more demonstrative 168ème Édition (based on the 2012 vintage) that preceded it; but its bright spine of acidity is nicely cloaked in fruit. Concluding with a long and sapid finish, this is a very classically balanced Champagne that will reward bottle age

Wine Spectator (96)

A mouthwatering rosé that wraps a racy spine of acidity in the plushly creamy, cashmere-like mousse, offering a fine frame for the rich and finely meshed range of flavors, with baked raspberry, passion fruit and Mandarin orange peel fruit accented by chopped hazelnut, fleur de sel, candied ginger and lime blossom notes that echo for days on the vivid finish. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Disgorged autumn 2019. Drink now through 2030.

Jancis Robinson (17.5)

Panzano in Chianti. 100% Sangiovese grown at 450 m above sea level. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete tanks and aged in large oak casks. Lustrous, youthful crimson. Deep dark and minerally cherry nose with hints of raspberries. Compact tangy cherry and raspberry fruit that really deepens on the palate while keeping its nervy intensity. Coating tannins complement the whole.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (94)

The 2020 Le Petit Smith Haut Lafitte is a gorgeous second wine. Dark cherry, grilled herbs, menthol, licorice, plum, spice and tobacco infuse the 2020 with striking aromatic nuance. Cabernet Sauvignon drives the blend, and that is very much in evidence in the wine's flavor profile and overall structure. There's terrific depth and density here, not to mention tons of character.

L’Eau de Vie de Prunes is yet another brainchild of the enigmatic Baron Phillipe who this time wanted to maintain the traditional biodiversity of Mouton by encouraging and cultivating a range of plants, not just vines. An orchard called Les Pruniers was planted with an incredible five varieties of plum tree, all of which are essential notes in the harmony of this spirit. Revealing both the essence of each single variety as well as the masterful skill of the blenders, this composition is the pinnacle of elegance and concentration. Aged for a whopping 15 years partly in oak barrels and partly in demijohns, this is a true reflection of Mouton terroir conveyed through a different fruit!

Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (93)

Grabs you from the first moment your nose hovers over the glass. Smudged charcoal runs into raspberry, underbrush and mandarin orange peel that speaks of Tuscan sun. Excellent quality, good persistency in the glass as it stretches out through the palate. Everything feels in balance, and this provides another indicator that 2020 is a great vintage in this corner of Italy - Le Volte is (almost) 100% Merlot but has freshness and nuance. Director Axel Heinz, oenologist Olga Fusari.

Jeb Dunnuck (98+)

From an incredible terroir on the upper plateau, just above Pavie, the 2018 Château Pavie Decesse is a normal blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc brought up in mostly new French oak. Its dense purple color is followed by an incredibly classic limestone-driven bouquet of chalky minerality, white flowers, truffle, lead pencil, and cassis and blackberry-like fruits. This carries to an incredibly pure, full-bodied Saint-Emilion with nicely integrated acidity, flawless balance, building tannins, and a great finish. This remarkable, elegant yet powerful 2018 won't hit full maturity for another 10-12 years, but it's a magical Saint-Emilion that should live for 30-40 years.

James Suckling (98-99)

This is integrated, with superb density and beauty, offering blackcurrant, mineral and some bark. Full-bodied, yet so polished and refined. Crushed stone. Lots of expression and texture to this wine. Creamy. Pure and precise. Elegant, yet layered. Slightly plusher than the 2019. Dense, yet agile. Fresh as always. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 32% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 4% petit verdot. 50% new oak 15% old oak and 35% concrete amphorae.

James Suckling (97-98)

Wow. This is very chalky and salty with lots of mineral character. It shows lots of purple fruit and firm tannins. Racy and bright. Chewy yet fine tannins. Gorgeous. Gets better and better.

Vinous (87-89)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes has a clean and pure bouquet with perfumed raspberry and wild strawberry scents, a subtle earthiness underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine acidity, gentle grip with a nicely structured, Morey-like finish. Fine.

Each Limited Edition 2008 Oenotheque Case contains:

2 x 75cl Salon 2004 - 96 pts | William Kelley (Wine Advocate) & 97 pts | Antonio Galloni (Vinous)

2 x 75cl Salon 2006 - 95 pts | William Kelley (Wine Advocate) & 96 pts | Antonio Galloni (Vinous)

2 x 75cl Salon 2007 - 96 pts | William Kelley (Wine Advocate) & 97 pts | Antonio Galloni (Vinous)

1 x 150cl Magnum of Salon 2008 - 100 pts | William Kelley (Wine Advocate) & 100 pts | Antonio Galloni (Vinous)

• Highly sought with immense collectable value

• Each vintage scores at least 95 points by William Kelley (Wine Advocate)

• Only 8,000 magnums of the 2008 vintage ever produced