Vinous (95)

The NV (2014) Blanc de Blancs Experience is another very beautiful and expressive Champagne from Agrapart. Silky and nuanced, the Experience is quite vinous, with a very subtle mousse and tons of freshness. Experience is a blend of fruit from Les Robards and Les Bionnes. Pascal Agrapart added unfermented 2015 juice to a base of 2014 wine for the secondary fermentation, an approach that yields a Champagne that is both unique and compelling. Non-dosé. Disgorged: July 2018.

Decanter (99)

This is powerful and blows away much of the competition with its depth and layers. This needs you to pull up a chair, take a beat, and let the flavours unroll. There is so much density to the blueberry, bilberry and smoked raspberry fruits that they start out knitted down, then as the oxygen opens them up the body of the wine widens and becomes fleshier and creamier, adding chocolate and mocha notes. The limestone scrape is there in spades through the finish, and this is a cleverly constructed wine. As ever Ausone is just a masterclass in how to take apart and then put back together a terroir. Great stuff. First year of official conversion to organic farming. 100% new oak, some in 30hl oak casks. Could go up after tasting in bottle, a potential 100 points.

Vinous (98)

Bellevue Mondotte is magnificent in 2016. Stunningly rich and concentrated, with tremendous structure, the 2016 has so much to offer. Crème de cassis, raspberry jam, lavender, graphite, game, menthol and a whole rush of inky blue/purplish fruit emerge from this explosive, captivating Saint-Émilion. In 2016 Bellevue Mondotte balances sumptuousness with saline-infused energy and persistence. It is without question one of the truly great wines of the vintage.

Jeb Dunnuck (95-97)

Based on 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot, the Grand Vin 2020 Château Beychevelle is a stunner that does everything right, offering a monster bouquet of black and blue fruits as well as candied violets, incense, flowers, and toasty oak. A ripe, full-bodied, incredibly sexy wine in every sense, it has a great mid-palate, ripe, velvety tannins, no hard edges, and a great finish. It's one of the more up-front, exotic wines in the vintage and should be accessible with just short-term cellaring.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine.

Jancis Robinson MW (19)

Disgorged October 2010. Tasted blind. Something a bit rubbery on the nose but very tense and exciting. Is this the 2008? Tense and vibrant, with lots of complexity and persistence. Impressive for its age.

Wine Spectator (97)

This goes from zero to 60 right out of the gate, with an intense spine of acidity driving tightly meshed flavors of crushed black currant, ground coffee, candied grapefruit peel and toasted almond. The profile expands on the palate, carried by the fine, raw silk–like mousse. Richly aromatic and expressive from start to lasting, spiced finish. Disgorged July 2019. Drink now through 2037. 850 cases imported.

Vinous (98)

The 2014 La Grande Année is stunning. In fact, it is one of the best recent editions I can remember tasting. What comes through most is the wine’s sizzling energy and tension, qualities that aren’t often associated with Bollinger, where the Champagnes tend to show more breadth and volume. In 2014, readers will find a Grande Année built on linear intensity and drive. The 2014 is a blend taken from 19 villages, 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay instead of the more typical 70/30 mix. For the second time in two decades (the first was 2007), Verzenay takes the lead in the Pinots over Aÿ, more or less an inverse from the norm. Verzenay, a north-facing village in the Montagne de Reims that saw less rain than Aÿ and most of the Vallée de la Marne, yields Pinots of energy more than volume. That, married with Chardonnays mostly from the Côtes des Blancs (predominantly Chouilly, Vertus, Oiry and Cramant), results in a truly magical Grande Année that will delight Champagne fans for several decades. I can’t recommend the 2014 highly enough. It’s a total knock-out. Disgorged: April, 2021. Dosage: 8 grams per liter.

Decanter (97)

An enticingly rewarding nose of apricot, flint and toast leads to a palate that's just as good and even more developed, with honey, brioche marzipan and bruised apple notes. It has super tension and drive. Compelling, delicious and distinctive.

Essi Avellan (96-98)

At this point of youthfulness the pink colour is rather rich and bright. Lovely clean and fruit-forward nose with fresh red berry aromas mixing with spice and orange notes. Quite shyly evolved with much more to surface on the complexity front. Today there is attractive exuberant fruitiness and perfect creamy freshness. Promising palate with power and persistence where an overall harmony enhances the feeling of sophistication.

Wine Spectator (95)

Loads of crushed berries, with mineral, lightly toasted oak and licorice. Full-bodied, with big, velvety tannins and a long, caressing finish. This is the sleeper of the vintage. Best after 2010. 17,500 cases made.

Jeb Dunnuck (99)

The 2020 Château Calon Ségur is pure gold and another masterpiece from this estate. Harvested all in September and pulled from their 48 hectares of vines, the blend is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot that spent 20 months all in new French oak, and it hit 13.2% natural alcohol. My notes started and ended with "wow," and this riveting Saint-Estèphe offers a heavenly bouquet of red and black currants, truffly earth, iron, espresso, and tobacco leaf. With incredible purity of fruit, full-bodied richness, and ultra-fine tannins, it's a deep, pure, layered 2020 that deserves at least 7-8 years of bottle age and will cruise for 40-50 years in cold cellars. Hats off to the team at Calon Ségur.

Wine Advocate (98+)

Composed of 74% Merlot and 26% Cabernet Franc and aged for 18 months in 70% new French barriques, the 2016 Canon is medium to deep garnet-purple in color, and—WOW—it opens with the most stunning perfume of violets, red roses and kirsch, giving way to a core of black cherry preserves, chocolate box, licorice, warm plums and Chinese five spice plus an earthy waft of underbrush. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is completely filled with expressive, perfumed black berry layers accented by lively red fruits and exotic spices, supported by impressively fine-grained tannins and fantastic tension, finishing very long with jaw-dropping energy. Tasted three times, I had one opportunity to taste the 2015 and 2016 Canon side by side. While I love the bold, rich, seductive nature of the 2015, this 2016 kicks it up a notch in terms of polish, precision, depth and persistence. Most notably, the superbly ripe, exquisitely fine-grained tannins on this 2016 bring to the table a whole other level of sophistication. Bravo!

Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (98-100)

Retasting this in June, so just a few months after my initial En Primeur tasting, and once again the ovreall feeling is that this is a nuanced, concentrated and briliant wine at the top level of what we find from Cheval Blanc. Long-limbed and holding on tight, this is layered with fennel, cassis, raspberry, mint leaf, violets and peonies. Plenty of tannins, as you would expect from such a dry year, but they are full of life, with acidity that pulls the palate forward from the first moment. 71% of overall production. The driest year at Cheval Blanc for 50 years. A potential 100 points when tasted in bottle in 2022.

The Wine Cellar Insider (99)

Rich, supple, deep, intense and complex, this is stunning from the get go. One sniff of all that gorgeous, spicy kirsch, herbs, peppery spice and mélange of red fruits and you're hooked. If that wasn't enough, the silky, supple, elegant, fresh palate presence will seal the deal, finishing with its layers of deep, red fruits. This wine should age and evolve for 2-3 decades with ease. The wine is a blend of 45% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah and the remaining 5% consists of various, allowable grape varieties. The grapes are as always 100% destemmed.

Wine Advocate (94)

Blended of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, the 2006 Cos d'Estournel is deep garnet colored with a touch of brick, opening with enticing scents of rosemary-crusted roast lamb, dried cherries, baked blackcurrants and mincemeat pie with touches of fallen leaves, cigar box and pencil lead. Medium-bodied, lively and elegantly played in the mouth, it has a firm backbone of chewy tannins and plenty of mineral accents on the long finish.

Burghound (88)

Cool and airy aromas are comprised by notes of red cherry, plum and hints of violet and anise. The mouthfeel of the middleweight flavors is wonderfully sleek and energetic that contrasts with the chalky, dusty compact and somewhat short finish.

Vinous (92-94)

The 2021 Pommard Les Rugiens-Bas 1er Cru has a slightly chalky nose, a mélange of red and black fruit and touches of undergrowth and autumn leaves. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, crisp and focused, quite elegant towards the finish with a long aftertaste. I can see this evolving over the long term.

Vinous (93-95)

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a perfumed, mineral-driven nose that is one of the best amongst de Montille's whites: tensile and brimming with vivacity. The palate is taut and fresh on the entry, lime and grapefruit merging into slightly more tropical fruit towards the finish, but the tension is here throughout. This is a triumph given the season.

Vinous (93-95)

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a perfumed, mineral-driven nose that is one of the best amongst de Montille's whites: tensile and brimming with vivacity. The palate is taut and fresh on the entry, lime and grapefruit merging into slightly more tropical fruit towards the finish, but the tension is here throughout. This is a triumph given the season.

Burghound (93)

Outstanding An overtly spicy and ever-so-slightly riper aromas include a whisper of the exotic on the cool citrus, Asian-style tea with jasmine hints. The laser-like, intense and utterly delicious medium weight flavors also exude a borderline palpable minerality that adds a sense of lift to the bone-dry, youthfully austere and strikingly persistent finale. This is excellent and I particularly like the balance though note well that it's going to need at least a few years of keeping before it will be reasonably approachable.

Vinous (90-92)

The 2021 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has a very attractive bouquet with brambly, red berry fruit, white pepper and sous-bois scents, nicely focused with a subtle garrigues note. The palate is medium-bodied with fine depth, crisp and lively with a healthy dash of white pepper. Well-focused and harmonious, this is a fine Volnay Champans.

Vinous (90-92)

The 2021 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has a very attractive bouquet with brambly, red berry fruit, white pepper and sous-bois scents, nicely focused with a subtle garrigues note. The palate is medium-bodied with fine depth, crisp and lively with a healthy dash of white pepper. Well-focused and harmonious, this is a fine Volnay Champans.

Burghound (91-94)

Here too the reduction is enough to mask everything but a subtle floral nuance. The gorgeously refined and pungently mineral-driven middleweight flavors culminate in a chalky, long, balanced and classically austere finale. Textbook Taillepieds.

Vinous (92-94)

The 2021 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru has a harmonious bouquet with red berry fruit, sous-bois, thyme and touches of dried rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, crisp with tea leaf and bay leaf, building gently towards a composed, quasi-Morey-Saint-Denis finish. The pedigree of the terroir really defines this wine, even in a tough vintage like this.

Vinous (93-95)

The 2021 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts Cuvée Christiane 1er Cru has two-thirds whole cluster, a little more than the regular cuvée, malo not completed until August 2022. The bouquet is fresh on the entry with fine acidity; there's more detail and nuance here. The 2021 is beautifully balanced and quite granular towards the finish, full of tension with a long tail on the finish. Sublime.

Decanter (98)

What a magnificent bouquet for this Dom Pérignon 2012! Pastry, a hint of smoke and autolytic notes provide a compelling counterpart to eager yet elegant aromas of citrus (lime, tangerine and kumquat) joined by those of fresh fruit, herbs, liquorice, and menthol. There is even a refreshing note of ivy. The palate is tense, vibrant, and very fresh despite its impressive density, which meets its match with an unending finish. This 2012 incarnates the very essence of Dom Pérignon with such a concentrated degree of intensity, along with a capacity for ageing, that it is surely destined for a second life in a P2 edition.

Wine Advocate (93)

Tasted at BI Wine & Spirits' 10-Years-On tasting, the 2007 Domaine de Chevalier was tasted from two bottles. I returned the first as it felt a little volatile on the nose, but the second was as it should be. This has a very refined bouquet with scents of warm gravel and black olives permeating the dark berry fruit, all very well defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very fresh and generous in the mouth with superb mineralité and tension towards the tertiary finish. What a lovely Domaine de Chevalier—à point—but with the substance to suggest that it will not go downhill in any hurry. Tasted February 2017.

Jeb Dunnuck (97)

Talk about value, the 2009 Duhart-Milon is straight up sensational stuff. Made from 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Merlot, it gives up classic notes of blackcurrants, pencil shavings, saddle leather and smoked herbs, it’s full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with fine tannin, impeccable balance and a great, great finish. It’s a heavenly bottle of wine that will compete with the best out there. Buy this wine!

James Suckling (95-96)

This is so refined with beautiful currant, berry and some subtle chocolate and coffee. It’s full and very subtle with fine tannins that have a long finish. Such purity and finesse with structure. Fresh and savory. 72% cabernet sauvignon and 28% merlot.